UPATIONS FOR 
TLE FINGERS 

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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




GE AND COOLEY 




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Book .___£&£. 
Copyright N° 



COPVRICHT DEPOStT 



OCCUPATIONS FOR 
LITTLE FINGERS 



OCCUPATIONS FOR 
LITTLE FINGERS 

A Manual for Grade Teachers, Mothers 
and Settlement Workers 

BY 

ELIZABETH SAGE 

AND 

ANNA M. COOLEY, B.S. 

Of the Domestic Art Department, Teachers College 
Columbia University, New York 

WITH AN INTRODUCTORY NOTE BY 

MARY SCHENCK WOOLMAN 

Director of Domestic Art Department, Teachers College 
Columbia University, New York 

ILLUSTRATIONS BY THE AUTHORS 



NEW YORK 

CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS 

1905 






LIBRARY of CJOWQRESS 
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Copyright, 1905, by 
CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS 

Published, September, 1905 



TROW DIRECTORY 
PRINTING AND BOOKBINDING COMPANY 
NEW YORK 



TO 

THE MANY LITTLE PEOPLE WHO 

WILL FIND JOY THROUGH 

EXPRESSION 



PREFACE 

" Every task, however simple, 
Sets the soul that does it free." 

From time immemorial man has worked with his hands, 
and his time and attention have been utilized in the produc- 
tion of things both useful and ornamental. " Necessity" 
very often was the "mother of invention," and the need for 
food, shelter, and clothing led to the gradual development of 
industries, from the simple handwork to the elaborate prod- 
ucts of the factory system of to-day. 

Whether, then, through necessity, or simply because of joy 
in expression through the hands, the world is to-day a rich 
treasure-house stored with the wonderful products which 
man has created. The instinct for production is not dead, 
but will last as long as man, for to create is a divine and God- 
given instinct. 

Froebel, in his study of the child, realized that his natural 
activity could be utilized, and turned into channels which 
would lead to his gradual development, physical, moral, 
and intellectual. He believed in the development of head, 
heart, and hand. For that purpose he introduced the gifts, 
occupations, songs, and plays, and allowed the child to invent 
and create. Joy and happiness in work were the results. 

For some time kindergarten training was a precarious 
feature in education, but now that this branch has been in- 
corporated into the public-school systems and colleges, and 
finds a place even in university work, it seems an assured fact 
that children are to receive some of their early training in the 
kindergarten. Here their crude ideas are worked out through 
the materials offered, and the child improves in his ability to 



viii Preface 

express himself with his hands — for expression is necessary 
if images are to be clear. This handwork satisfies the early 
craving of the child for play and the practical, and the gifts 
and occupations become playthings in his hands, but, un- 
known to him, things of educational value. 

When the child leaves the kindergarten and passes to the 
grade school, too often the change is a very abrupt one. 
There is a lack of the old-time freedom, and an absence of the 
play materials. Children then begin to lose interest, and the 
attention is often forced rather than spontaneous, and teach- 
ing ceases to be as effective. 

As a help in alleviating this difficulty, handwork as one 
of the mediums of expression has been introduced into 
many of the grade schools, sometimes in correlation with 
other subjects, but more often simply in an occupational way. 
Handwork as manual training is most effective when taught 
in relation to the other work of the grade, so that there is 
unity and a harmonious development. By manual training 
is meant not simply work which is spontaneously interesting 
and keeps the child alert and active, but work which is 
educationally effective. This effectiveness is in the hands of 
the teacher, and will be worked out by her if she under- 
stands the theory back of real manual training. 

This little book is in answer to a number of demands which 
have come from different parts of the country. Busy mothers 
at home, grade teachers and settlement-workers are con- 
stantly asking, "What can I do with my children? They 
want something to do." The object of this book is simply 
to furnish some ideas and to act as a suggestive medium; 
in no way does it attempt to correlate the work for the 
teacher. It has been left for her to utilize the material here 
offered in working out her schemes for unity in the develop- 
ment of the class work. 

In the study of various kinds of handwork for children, one 
will find that they are most interested in form when it is 



Preface ix 

associated with function or color; that children are interested 
in things in connection with people, animals, and plants, and 
when they can construct something in which they can feel the 
sense of self, as the cause of that construction, the joy of ex- 
pression brings great happiness. 

Constructive handwork offers many opportunities for the 
development of design, and often a detail of design lends 
an atmosphere of greater reality to an object, especially when 
the object made is of miniature size and is for play-use, as 
a doll's table-cover, cushion, chair, hat, etc. Children feel 
many things in their imagination, and a little touch of reality 
in design furthers that imaginative thought. Many oppor- 
tunities are offered in this work for the teaching of harmony 
of color, for the adaptation of design to use, and for the 
correct placing of design in relation to the space offered for 
decoration. Teachers are urged to lay particular emphasis on 
the design, which in previous years has been very much 
neglected. "The highest aim of art is to make some useful 
thing beautiful." 

The writers have realized the necessity for keeping the cost 
of the articles made at a minimum. As represented, perhaps 
a few are beyond the average public-school treasury or purse 
of the settlement-worker, but they can, almost without excep- 
tion, be reproduced in less expensive materials. The work 
will be equally valuable, only in the cheaper goods there is 
not always the same opportunity for harmony of color and 
for artistic production. 

Perfect and accurate work should not be expected from 
young children, but the teacher must consider the age and 
ability of the child, and judge the results accordingly. A 
very crude piece of work, produced perhaps by a child in 
some school of reform nature, may have been of far more 
help and value in that child's development than that produced 
under far more favorable circumstances. 

The writers hope that within these covers may be found 



x Preface 

suggestions for the teachers of such little people as especially 
need help, and that the book may be the means later on in 
life of introducing them to much broader fields of expression 
through which great joy may come to them and be given to 
the world. 

Thanks are due to the Domestic Art Students of Teachers 
College, Columbia University, for the use of some of the 
articles photographed. 



CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Preface vii 

Introductory Note xvii 

CHAPTER 

I. A Talk about the Materials Used i 

II. Some Uses for Cord and String .... 7 

III. A Few Suggestions for Raffia .... 18 

IV. Coarse Sewing 34 

V. Paper Cutting and Folding 46 

VI. Some Stories in Clay 60 

VII. Weaving 67 

VIII. Bead-Work 81 

IX. How to Furnish a Doll's House . . .91 

X. Simple Upholstery for Home Use . . .104 

XI. Crocheting and Knitting 113 

XII. Some Special Work for Boys 125 

XIII. How to Use Nature's Materials . . . 140 



LIST OF PLATES 

Indian Life, First Grade, Horace Mann School, 

Teachers College, New York City . . Frontispiece 

PLATE PAGE 

I. Cord-Work 15 

II. Articles Made from Raffia 20 

III. Articles Made from Raffia 23 

IV. Coarse Sewing . 36 

V. Paper Cutting .47 

VI. Paper Cutting and Folding 58 

VII. Clay Modeling 61 

VIII. Weaving 73 

IX. Some Looms 77 

X. Bead-Work 85 

XL Furniture for Doll's House .... 93 

XII. Upholstery . . . . . . . . .105 

XIII. Crocheting and Knitting 115 

XIV. Work for Boys 127 

XV. Work for Boys 133 

XVI. The Use of Nature's Materials. . . .145 



LIST OF FIGURES 



FIG 




PAGE 


FIG. 


I. 


Chain Stitch .... 


8 


29. 


2. 


Blanket Stitch . . . 


8 


3°- 


3- 


Detail of Lanyard . . 


9 




4- 


Three-Strand Braid . . 


10 


3 1 - 


5- 


Half Hitch 


10 


3 2 - 


6. 


Double Chain Stitch 


10 


33- 


7- 


Detail of Horse Reins . 


11 


34- 


8. 


Slip Loop ..... 


11 


35- 


9- 


Loop for Hammock 


14 




IO. 


Detail of Whip . . . 


16 


36. 


IT. 


Sailor Knot ...» 


17 


37- 


12. 


Feather and Catch Stitch 


21 


38. 


13- 


Detail for Napkin Ring 


21 


39- 


14. 


Paired Weaving . . . 


24 




J 5- 


Wattling ..... 


24 


40. 


16. 


Detail for Umbrella . 


25 


41. 


i7- 


Start for Mat .... 


2 5 


42. 


18. 


Overhand Knot . . . 


26 


43- 


19. 


Solomon's Knot . . . 


2 7 


44. 


20. 


Start and Stitch for Coilec 


[ 


45- 




Basket 


29 


46. 


21. 


Mat Borders .... 


3° 


47- 


22. 


Netting 


3 2 


48. 


2 3- 


Uneven Blanket Stitch . 


37 


49. 


24. 


Even Blanket Stitch 


38 


50- 


25- 


Running Stitch . . . 


38 


5i- 


26. 


Cross Stitch .... 


39 


5 2 - 


2 7- 


Detail of Letter-Case . 


39 


53- 


28. 


Detail of Iron-Holder . 


40 


54- 



PAGE 

Tying of Fringe , . . . 41 
Two Runs and a Back 

Stitch 42 

Overhand Stitch .... 42 

Overcasting 43 

Stitching Stitch .... 44 

Couching ^ 44 

Detail for Five-Pointed 

Star ...... . 48 

Detail for Accordion . 48 

Pinwheel 49 

Sketch for Paper Dolls . . 50 
Pattern for Conventional 

Cutting 51 

Picture Frame . . . . 52 

Wall Pocket 53 

Screen 54 

Envelope ...... 55 

Pattern for Box . . . . 55 

Drawing for Lamp Shade . 56 

Detail of Lamp Shade . . 57 

Sketch of Fish .... 63 

Coiled Basket 64 

Detail of Bowl .... 66 

Splint Weaving .... 69 

Rings for Hammock . . 70 

Zuhi Heddle 72 

Shuttle 75 

Detail for Pattern Weaving 76 



XVI 



List of Figures 



FIG. 




PAGE 


FIG. 


55- 


Circular Weaving for Pocke 


SO 


79 


56. 


Pattern for Moccasin 


8l 


80 


57- 


Detail of Moccasin . . 


82 


81 


58. 


Start of Egyptian Chain 


84 


82 


59- 


Bead Chain .... 


86 


83 


60. 


Bead Chain .... 


87 


84 


61. 


Mount for Fob 


88 


85 


62. 


Daisy Chain .... 


89 


86 


63- 


Box for Bed .... 


92 


87 


64. 


Toilet Table .... 


95 


88 


65- 


Pattern for Arm-Chair , 


97 


89 


66. 


Start for Table . . . 


98 


90 


67. 


Rattan Arm-Chair . . 


100 


91 


68. 


Detail of Arm-Chair 


IOI 


92 


60. 


Detail of Arm-Chair 


IOI 


93- 


70. 


Passe-partout .... 


102 


94. 


7i- 


Mitre for Corner . . . 


107 


95 


72. 


Pattern for Window-Sea 




96 




Cover 


in 




73- 


Ball for Tam-o'-Shanter 


114 


97 


74- 


Double Crochet Stitch . 


116 


98. 


75- 


Pattern for Slipper Sole 


116 


99. 


76. 


Spool Knitting . . . 


120 


100. 


77- 


Setting Up for Knitting 


121 


IOI. 


7»- 


Detail for Folding of Hooc 


122 


102. 



PAGE 

Folding of Jacob's Ladder 126 
Folding of Palm-Tree . .126 

Soldier Hat 128 

Epaulets 129 

Ball-Cover 129 

Drawing Stitch .... 130 

Kite Frame 130 

Kite 131 

Indian Tent 132 

Trousers for Indian Doll 135 
Coat for Indian Doll . . 135 

Indian Bow 136 

Bumper for Sail Boat . 137 

Doll 138 

Patterns for Doll's Clothes 138 

Seed Chains 141 

Start of Grape-vine Basket 141 
Handle for Grape-vine 

Basket 142 

Detail of Fern Basket . 143 
Pattern for Canoe . . . 146 
Finish for Birch-bark Box 147 
Start for Grass Basket . 151 
Turning Side of Basket . 152 
Pattern with Corn Husks 154 



INTRODUCTORY NOTE 

The child is naturally a worker. He will destroy if he 
does not know how to make. Destruction interests him as 
much as construction. He likes to see "the wheels go 
around," and it matters little to him if the gratifying of his 
desires is advantageous or not to the article in hand. 

Mothers, who were the earliest and should be the best 
teachers, long ago found that the happiest child was the 
busy one. They discovered also that to keep him at work 
he must be interested in the thing he is doing. To ac- 
complish this they must provide that which he feels to be 
worth the effort. It must be something which he under- 
stands and which he can finish in a short time. A stupid, 
difficult "stint" such as poor Little Prudy had to finish daily 
is not calculated to increase a love for work. The wise and 
patient mother has it in her power to create an interest in 
the daily work of the household. Even such homely tasks as 
sweeping, dusting, and sewing may be taught to the children 
and prove pleasurable and profitable to them. 

Handwork has its place in education as well as in the daily 
life. It should ever be "a blessing, not a doom." It may 
give in both places rich returns, which should affect the child 
in the development of his thought, of his emotional life, and 
of his character. The results of the work are the child's, 
but the mother and the teacher must study how best to give 
the full joy of work to the children. 

This book considers the needs of both the mother and 
the teacher. It has been written by two teachers who know 
and love children and who have practically worked out with 
them the things of which they write. It tries to meet the 



xviii Introductory Note 

child's constant cry, "What shall I do?" with a direct reply 
full of help and of interest. Mere formal models are not 
mentioned, the book dealing with attractive and useful 
articles. It sets forth the best way of making such articles 
and it tells what they should cost. Simple crafts from 
many industrial fields are chosen in order that variety in 
work may increase the child's interest in the world about 
him. The teacher who has the handwork in the early 
grades finds here a series of valuable suggestions, while the 
mother is fortified with delightful occupations for rainy days. 
This little book should therefore increase the helpfulness and 
happiness of many little workers in the school, the settlement, 
and the home. 

Mary Schenck Woolman. 



OCCUPATIONS FOR 
LITTLE FINGERS 



OCCUPATIONS FOR LITTLE 
FINGERS 

CHAPTER I 

A TALK ABOUT THE MATERIALS USED 

The resourcefulness of localities varies in such a degree 
that materials which may be quite feasible and easy for one 
teacher or mother to obtain may be rather difficult for an- 
other. In this talk on the materials used it is hoped that 
suggestions may be offered which will make it possible for 
even those in more remote districts to carry on some of the 
occupations presented, though perhaps in not quite the same 
way as outlined in the following chapters. 

Many varieties of cord will be found adaptable to the kind 
of work presented in the chapter on that subject. Even a 
piece of discarded string may be utilized; 
odds and ends, saved from time to time, 
may be sorted and knotted together if it is possible to procure 
no other. 

Macrame cord lends itself to this variety of work in a most 
pleasing way, as it is soft and pliable. It may be obtained 
from wholesale twine houses, and costs about twenty-five 
cents a pound, and the numbers vary according to the size 
of the cord, No. 16 being finer than No. 60. A hank of the 
fine will go farther than one of larger size. The hanks are 
wound in a way similar to worsteds, and for large classes 
the teacher will find it advisable to wind a number of small 
balls, and distribute the cord in that way. Colored macrame 
may be procured in balls for ten cents each. 

l 



2 Occupations for Little Fingers 

The netting-needles used in making cord hammocks, bags, 
etc., in which the netting stitch is used, may be procured 
generally at a kindergarten supply place. If none is near, 
the needles and mesh-sticks may be made by the children 
(see Fig. 22), or pieces of old rulers may be used for mesh- 
sticks, and a round pointed stick for needle. The cord may 
be wound around the stick first to one side and then to the 
other. Care must be taken, however, not to fill the needle 
too full, as it will be quite difficult to put through the mesh. 

Raffia has been used so extensively during the past few 
years that it will perhaps be the material most easily obtain- 
able. It is possible to order small quantities 
RAFFIA , ., F f ,, . .. . ? ,, . 

by mail, or to obtain it at a neighboring 

florist's. Large quantities may be ordered from wholesale 
seed stores in most of the large cities. Some wholesale firms 
have several qualities, and will ship in large quantities at 
reduced rates; colors may also be obtained. The kinder- 
garten supply places also deal in both plain and colored, and 
are, perhaps, more satisfactory shops if only small quantities 
are desired. The department stores in some cities also carry 
a supply. 

Raffia comes principally from Madagascar, and is a natural 
material which forms the outside covering of a palm. It is 
of yellowish color, soft, and easy to handle. 

More satisfactory results may be obtained in working with 
the colored raffia if the vegetable dyes have been used. 

Many materials may be used for the work in coarse sewing. 
If the locality does not offer any of the canvas or burlap 

varieties, one can always find a substitute, 

CANVAS iu ■ • r 

such as heavy scrim, crinoline, or some 

coarsely woven material. Denim can be 
found in most places. 

The Java canvas, basket burlap, and cotton burlap are so 
wide that a yard is sufficient for quite a number of small 
articles. Jute burlap, one yard wide, may be bought for 



A Talk About the Materials Used 3 

15 cents. Java canvas is more expensive, the price varying 
from 75 cents a yard to $1. The basket burlap is woven in 
squares and costs $1.50 per yard. The price of denim is 15 
cents a yard, and that of cotton burlap $1.25. 

These may be obtained at art-embroidery shops, and often 
in department stores. By the quantity they seem costly, 
but it must be remembered that each child receives only a 
small piece, and the canvas is very wide. 

Germantown wool may be used for sewing, and although 
less expensive than a mercerized cotton, is liable to become 
moth-eaten. It may be obtained at art or department stores. 
Poseidon, referred to in Chapter IV, is a mercerized cotton 
thread, and comes in small hanks in various numbers. The 
colors are very beautiful and make an artistic finish. It 
may be obtained for 35 cents a dozen skeins. 

San silk may be substituted for Poseidon, although the 
colors are not as pretty; a large spool costs only 4 cents, and 
if the best colors are selected the results are very effective. 
Some art stores and nearly all department houses keep it. 
The Prisma cotton mentioned is a heavy form of Poseidon. 

For the card sewing, kindergarten supply places furnish 
the best variety. These cards may be obtained in many 
sizes. Those 4x5 inches cost 30 cents a 
hundred. If it is not possible to obtain cpwrNr 
these, any scrap of card-board or heavy 
paper, and even an old visiting-card, may be pressed into 
service. 

Any available piece of paper may be used for folding. 
Cartridge-paper by the roll, for wall hang- 
ing, is inexpensive. It may be found at all PAPER CUT- 
paper-hangers and decorators', for about 20 FOLDING 
cents a roll. Many other useful papers 
may be found at the same place. 

Ordinary brown, and even cheap straw papers, make artistic 
effects, either as backgrounds or for the folded form. 



4 Occupations for Little Fingers 

Kindergarten papers come in all the colors, shades, and 
tones, and are very beautiful. Those cut 4x4 inches cost 
20 cents a hundred, and can be obtained at kindergarten 
supply places. Black paper is useful in cutting, especially 
for silhouetting, and is inexpensive. Bogus paper is also very 
cheap; it costs 70 cents per 500 in the 9x12 inch sheets. 

For very simple work with young children, the potter's gray 
clay serves the best purpose. It can be obtained at a neighbor- 
ing potter's or at pottery works, or even at kin- 
dergarten supply houses. It is sold in bricks, 
and costs about 2 cents per pound, or $1.50 per 100 pounds. 

One simple, flat, wooden stick is the only tool which is 
really needed, and much may be accomplished without this, 
with wire, toothpicks, string, knitting-needles, etc. 

Looms of some description must necessarily be used after 

the simple splint weaving has been studied. Looms may be 

improvised from paper candy-boxes, or any 
"WFAVTlMf . 

MATERIAT S kind °f a small wooden box will answer the 

purpose. 

There are a number of small looms on the market, such as 
the Woolman, Todd, and others. Indian looms may be 
made of four natural sticks bound at the corners. The 
marketable looms range in price from 75 cents to $1.50. 

The woolen yarns for weaving seem to be best in effect, but 
are more expensive than cotton. Strips of cloth or rags may 
be used, and are very inexpensive. Carpet yarns may be 
procured in a number of shades at 75 cents per pound. 

German town wool and wool rug yarn are soft and pleasing. 
Wool yarns may often be obtained from rug houses, that 
are glad to dispose of small quantities of left-over shades in 
various numbers. These vary in price from 75 cents to $1.50 
a pound, according to number. 

Raffia may be used in weaving small articles, but is not as 
satisfactory as other materials. Candle-wicking or cable 
cord is inexpensive material for elementary weaving work. 



A Talk About the Materials Used 5 

Linen thread is generally used in making bead-work be- 
cause of its superior strength. It may be 
obtained at any department store. 

The beads come in a variety of sizes, and are numbered 
according to color and size. The wholesale bead houses 
furnish illustrated lists of the prices per bunch ; they may also 
be purchased at the shops dealing in Indian goods. At the 
kindergarten supply houses beads of assorted colors are 
sometimes sold by the box. 

Most of the materials mentioned in the chapters on Cro- 
cheting, Upholstery, and the Doll's House 

may be obtained at a department or art- DOLL ' s HOUSE 
I . , , 4r , V, . . , UPHOLSTERY 

embroidery store. A list of the materials, CROCHETING 

with their widths and prices, is given below : 

Width, Price 

inches per yard 



Burlap (cotton) 67 

" (jute) 26 

Canvas (Java) (cream) 36 

" (colors) 36 

a n a 

" (white) .....!!..!.!..! 18 

Dimity 30 

Scrim (heavy) 40 

Muslin — Alpine Rose 36 

" (unbleached) 36 

Holland Linen 42 

Art Ticking 36 

Brussels Net 36 



00 

35 
70 

45 
35 
25 
25 
35 
11 
07 
35 
25 
35 



Per lb. 

Wool — Columbia Yarn $1.45 

" — Saxony 1.50 

" — Zephyr 2.20 

The material for the rattan furniture may be bought at a 
kindergarten supply house or at a rattan company. It is 
sold by the pound and is numbered according to size — the 



6 Occupations for Little Fingers 

smaller the number the finer the reed or rattan. The num- 
bers and prices are given below : 

No. i, per lb $1.25 

No. 2, " 1 .00 

Nd. 3, « 75 

No. 4, " 75 

No. 5, " 60 

Retail prices have been given in all the lists furnished in 
this chapter, and are, of course, subject to variation. By 
buying at wholesale a large reduction may be obtained. 

Where the cost of articles is given in the following chapters 
the estimate is based on materials bought in large quantities, 
and in every case the cost has been worked out. 



CHAPTER II 

SOME USES FOR CORD AND STRING 

There is, perhaps, nothing which so appeals to the average 
boy or girl as a bit of string. It has wonderful possibilities, 
and slow is the boy who does not work it to its utmost capacity, 
from spinning a top to playing at cat's cradle with another 
boy. 

When it is introduced into the school-room the children are 
made extremely happy. Simple knotting may be begun with 
six-year-old children. This work trains the eye with the 
hand; measurement and spacing are taught, as well as num- 
ber, color, and a certain deftness of touch. The child must 
be attentive and thoughtful in order to follow well, and he 
is so interested that he does so unconsciously. This work 
strengthens the arm and finger muscles, and appeals to the 
child's desire to invent. 

Macrame cord is generally used for this work, but odd bits 
of string may be utilized if no other can be procured. 

Various kinds of knotting may be taught, and these can be 
used in many ways, in the making of raffia hats, bags, nets, 
etc. 

In demonstrating the cord work, the teacher will find it 
helpful to use large upholstery cords of various colors. 

Cord work may be used as an introduction to crocheting, 
and simplifies the approach to that work. It has been used 
with great success in the summer playgrounds for children, 
and the teachers have welcomed it as an interesting and in- 
structive occupation. 

7 



Occupations for Little Fingers 



L The Curtain Cord 

Materials. — Macrame cord, No. 16, 3 yards. — 1 brass ring, 1 
inch in diameter. Approximate cost per child-.. .01 

The curtain cord is made by using the chain-stitch, as in 
crocheting, but the fingers are used instead 
of a needle. Begin by making a circle, or 
letter O, at one end of the cord. Double the 
long end and draw the loop through the circle 
(see Fig. 1). Continue until two yards of the 
cord have been looped in a similar manner. 
Then pull the end of the 
cord all the way through the 
last loop in order to fasten 
it securely before finishing 
with the ring. Place the 
ring close to the last chain- 
stitch, and use the blanket- 
stitch in covering the ring 
with the cord (see Fig. 2). 
After this has been done, 
run the end of the cord up 

through the chain-stitch for two inches, 

and cut it off close. 



IL The Sailor's Lanyard 

Materials. — Macrame cord, No. 16, 8 
yards. — Macrame cord, No. 6, 2 yards. 
Approximate cost per child 01 

Five inches from the end of the eight- 
yard piece start the chain-stitch, as in 
making the curtain cord (see Fig. 1). Continue to within 
five inches of the other end of the cord. Pull the end 





Fig. 1. 




Fig. 2. 



Some Uses for Cord and String 9 

through the last loop in order to fasten it securely. With the 
fine cord bind the two five-inch pieces together. Begin 
just below the last chain-stitch, working over the end of the 
fine cord with the blanket-stitch (see Fig. 2). Continue for 
one inch from the chain-stitch, working over the two cords. 
Divide the two cords and form a loop, having the ends 
overlap (see Fig. 3). Continue with the blanket-stitch 
around the loop thus formed. 
Run the end of the cord under 
the blanket-stitch when the 
loop has been finished. 

III. The Whistle Chain 

Materials. — Macrame cord, 
No. 60, 2 \ yards. — 
Whistle. Approximate 
cost per child 01^ 

Four inches from one end of 
the cord begin the chain-stitch, 
as in making the curtain cord 
(see Fig. 1). Continue to 

within four inches of the other end, and pull this through the 
loop in order to fasten it. The whistle is strung on one of the 
four-inch ends of the crocheted chain, and that end is run up 
through the chain-stitch. It may be sewed to hold it more 
securely. The other end for the button loop is finished by 
running the end of the cord down through the crocheted 
chain and fastened with sewing. 

IV* The Scissors' Guard 

Materials. — Macrame cord, No. 60, 3 yards. — 1 pair small 
scissors. 

This guard is made of a three-strand braid. Cut one 
yard from the three-yard length. Double the two-yard 






10 Occupations for Little Fingers 

length to find the centre. Put the end of the one-yard piece 
under the centre and allow the end to extend four inches for 
the fastening of the scissors. Braid the three cords together 
(see Fig. 4) to within six inches of the ends. 
In braiding, the right and left 
hand strand in turn crosses the 
centre strand, and so becomes the 
centre one itself. Make a half- 
hitch with one strand over the 
other two, in order to hold it in 
place (see Fig. 5). Take the single 
cord of four inches, which extend- 
ed above the braid, pass it through 
one ring of the scissors handle and 
then down through the braid. In order to hold it very se- 
curely a few stitches may be taken with a needle and thread. 
Any suitable article may be substituted for the scissors. The 
price of this model depends upon the 
quality of scissors. 



V* The Horse-Reins 

Materials. — Colored Macrame cord, No. 
16, 5 yards. — White Macrame cord, 
No. 16, 5 yards. Approximate cost 
per child 02 

Knot the ends of the two cords together. 

Hold the knot and throw one cord around 

the fingers of the left hand, forming a 

loop. Pull a loop of this cord partly 

through the loop thus formed. Through 

this loop draw a loop of the contrasting 

color cord, and draw it up securely by pulling the end of the 

cord previously looped (see Fig. 6). Continue the whole 

length of the cords, by alternating the loops of color, and 




Some Uses for Cord and String 



11 



pulling them in place by drawing the end of 
the contrasting color. 

After this double chain-stitch has been 
completed, the horse-reins may be shaped to 
form the cross-piece. Make a circle of one- 
third of the chain by running the end of the 
cord in and out of the chain. Make a large 
circle with the remaining two-thirds by fast- 
ening the end six inches from the first fast- 
ening on the small circle (see Fig. 7). 

The horse-reins may be made with the 
single loop chain, and also larger in size. 
They may be dyed any attractive color, and 
if made of a heavy cord (No. 60) and trimmed with bells, 
may be used by the children for Christmas gifts. 




VL Braided Ties for Sailor Suit 

Materials. — Macrame cord, No. 16, 12 yards. Approximate 
cost per child 01 

Cut the twelve yards into six two-yard pieces. Three 
pieces will be used for each tie. Lay two cords evenly to- 
gether. Take the third cord, double it in half, and loop it 




around the middle of cords one and two (Fig. 8). Then 
begin to braid. Each strand of the braid is composed of two 
cords. In making a three-strand braid, the right and left- 



12 Occupations for Little Fingers 

hand strand in turn crosses the centre string and so becomes 
the centre one itself. 

The second tie may be made in a similar way and used on 
the boys' sailor suits. 

The children may also make ties for their flower-presses. 
They may be made in like manner, but in one piece, and of 
sufficient length to go twice around the press and tie. 

VII. The Overhand Knot 

Plate I, No. 7, shows the overhand knot and its use and 
application in a small piece of netting. The cord is thrown to 
either the right or left, forming a loop, and the end of the cord 
is drawn through it. Two cords may be knotted together 
with this knot, as shown in No. 7. 

VIIL The Square or Hard Knot 

Plate I, No. 8, shows the steps to be followed in making the 
square knot. The two ends are to be knotted together. 
Cross them and twist the upper end around the lower cord, 
bringing the ends up in position. Cross these two ends 
again, having the original upper end again go over and around 
the end it crosses. 

This knot is especially useful in tying bandages. 

IX* The Weaver's Knot 

Plate I, No. 9, if carefully studied, will reveal the method 
of making the weaver's knot. It is the knot especially used 
in weaving, and is strong and easily made after some practice. 

Cross the two ends at right angles. For convenience, we 
will call one the old end and the other the new piece to be 
joined to it. Place the new under the old and at right angles 
under the thumb. Hold them securelv. Pass the new cord 



Some Uses for Cord and String 13 

around the outline of the thumb-nail and under itself, then 
over the old, and hold it under the thumb. Pass the old end 
through the loop formed by the new. Hold all the ends and 
draw up the knot by pulling the newly added cord. 

This knot is too difficult for very young children, but may 
be given to the older ones. 

X. The Soft Carriage- Whip 

Materials. — Macrame cord, No. 60, 4 yards. Approximate 
cost per child 01 

Cut the cord in two pieces of two yards each. Cross the 
two at right angles in the middle. Tie the lower cord over 
the upper one at the point of crossing, using the single tie of 
the square knot. Continue to build up the whip by alternat- 
ing the cords tied, one above the other, to within six inches of 
the ends of the cords. One inch from the last tie, on each 
cord, make a single overhand knot. Continue knotting at 
inch intervals, on each of the four cords, to form the lash of 
the whip. 

XL The Hammock 

Materials. — Iron rings, i-inch, 2. — Macrame cord, No. 16, 12 
yards. — Macrame cord, No. 60, 1 yard. — Macrame cord, 
No. 6, 1 yard. Approximate cost per child 02 

Divide the twelve yards of No. 16 cord into eight pieces of 
one and one-half yards each. Double each strand in the 
middle and loop the eight through the iron ring (see Fig. 9). 
Four inches from the ring start the knotting to form a mesh. 
The overhand knot is used (see Plate I, Fig. 7). Take the 
first two cords in the right hand, throw the cords in a circle 
to the left and draw the two ends through it. Continue 
across the hammock, knotting the strands in order and by 
twos. One inch from the first row of knots make a second 
row. In starting it, the first cord is omitted. This forms the 



14 Occupations for Little Fingers 

mesh. On the third row, the two outside strands are again 
knotted in place. Continue the netting for eight or nine rows. 
Gather the ends together and slip them through the second iron 
ring and bind with half a yard of the fine cord. In large 
hammocks, where there is to be some strain, the ends may 
each in turn be passed around the ring and looped with an 
overhand knot before binding. 

To bind: Hold the net of the hammock in the left hand. 
Take one end of the fine cord in the right hand, and place the 
end of it as near the ring as possible and on top of the strands. 
Carry the fine cord toward the netting for one inch and back 
again toward the ring. A loop will thus 
be formed. Begin to bind over this loop, 
working from the ring toward the net. 
When all the cord has been wound evenly 
and tightly around the strands, put the 
end through the loop over which the cord 
has been bound. Take the first end of 
the cord extending at the ring, and pull it 
carefully. The loop will draw the cord 
under the binding and then the ends may 
be cut off close. Care must be taken not 
to pull the cord all the way through or the 
binding will be loosened. 
Cut the heavy cord in two pieces. Double them in the 
middle and loop one piece through each ring (see Fig. 9). 
Knot the two ends of each with the overhand knot. Half- 
way between the rings and the ends of these hangers make 
another overhand knot in order to hold the cords se- 
curely. 

Large hammocks may be made in a similar way with heavy 
cord and more strands. This makes very good work for 
playgrounds where the hammocks are afterward used for the 
babies. 




PLATE I 




Curtain cord. 
Lanyard. 
Whistle chain. 
Scissors guard. 
Reins. 



CORD-WORK 

6. Ties for Sailor Suit. 

7. Overhand knot. 

8. Square knot. 

9. Weaver's knot, 
11. Soft whip. 



12. Hammock. 

13. Whip. 

14. Sailor's knot. 



16 



Occupations for Little Fingers 



XIL The Lash Whip 

Materials. — Macrame cord, No. 16, 10 yards. — One piece of 
J-inch rattan, 9 inches. Approximate cost per child. .02 

From the length of cord cut off six yards for the binding of 
the handle. Divide the remaining four yards into eight pieces 
of half a yard each. The eight are to form the lash. At both 
ends of each half-yard piece make an overhand knot close to 
the end. From each knotted end work toward the middle 
of the cord*, making four more overhand knots at one and one- 
half-inch intervals. There will be a space of three inches 
left in the middle of each lash. This plain part is bound to 
the handle. 

One-half inch from the end of the rattan handle cut a 
slight groove. Place the middle of each lash at the groove 

and distribute them evenly 
around the handle. Half of 
the knotted lash will lie along 
the handle and the other half 
dangle from the end. Bind 
them to the stick with the fine 
cord tied in the groove. After 
tying, shake the lashes down 
in place, and start to cover the 
handle with the cord binding. 
Handle: Cut the six-yard 
length of cord in half. Place 
one piece at each side of the 
handle, with one-inch end of 
each piece lying on top of the lashes and the ends pointed 
away from them. Bind with the fine cord. The lengths will 
then be in position and ready for working over the rattan. 
The first inch will be the most difficult, for it is necessary to 
work over the bound lashes. Using the stick as the founda- 
tion, pass the left-hand cord over the stick, so it lies across 




Fig. 10. 



Some Uses for Cord and String 17 

it. Pass the right-hand cord over the end of the left, then 
under the stick and up through the loop formed by the left- 
hand cord (see Fig. 10). The cord will twist itself, forming 
the corkscrew appearance. Be careful to keep the left-hand 
cord on top of the stick each time, for it is upon this that the 
twist will depend. 

The handle may be finished by holding the ends of cord in 
place with a gilt-head tack nailed in the end of the handle. 
A loop of cord or a braid may also be made for a hanger. 

XIIL The Double Sailor's Knot 

Materials. — Corset-laces or cord. (Number dependent on 
the size of the bag desired.) 

This knot may be used in making various kinds of bags. 
Eighteen laces will make a small one. A foundation cord 






Fig. 11. 

is used at the top of the bag, and each lace is doubled and 
looped around it (see Fig. 9). 

Begin with two strands, one from each two groups. Make 
a loop of the left-hand one and lay it on the right-hand strand. 
Hold the loop in place while the right-hand end is woven 
over and under and through the loop of the left-hand strand 
(Fig. 11). 



CHAPTER III 

A FEW SUGGESTIONS FOR RAFFIA 

No material has opened up a larger field for children's 
work than raffia. It is a tough, strong, yet pliable fibre, 
which lends itself to many charming uses. Its natural color 
is extremely artistic, and its properties are such that it may 
be readily colored in many beautiful shades by the use of 
vegetable dyes. 

Raffia is imported from Madagascar, and is the outside 
covering of a native palm which grows in great abundance in 
that climate. The gathering and exporting of the fibre gives 
employment to many of the inhabitants, both men and women. 

In the following chapter will be given a few of its uses, 
but it would be almost impossible to describe the many 
articles which may be fashioned from a bunch of raffia. 
Some persons prefer to work with raffia damp or wet, but as 
soaking it makes it swell, it has been found that the best 
results are obtained from the dry. The material works 
better if it is used from the large end toward the small, as 
the fibre grows that way, and it is not as liable to rough up. 

L Brush Broom Holder 

Materials. — A piece of stiff paper, 4 x 9 J inches. — Several 
strands of raffia. — Tapestry needle, No. 18. — Thimble. 
Approximate cost per child 01 

Fold the paper with the four-inch sides overlapping one 
and one-half inches at the bottom and just meeting at the top, 
and sew. This forms the case for the brush. Take a wide 
strand of raffia and tie one end around the foundation case. 
Begin winding at the back or pieced side. Wind over and 

18 



A Few Suggestions for Raffia 19 

over, lapping the raffia carefully, until the paper is covered. 
The raffia will have to be pieced, as the strands are not very 
long; tie them together with an overhand knot and hide the 
knots on the inside of the case. Make a braid of raffia, using 
a color if possible, and sew it around, the top and bottom for 
decoration. Put a loop of the braid at the back for a hanger. 
This is very simple work, and is suitable for young children. 

IL Picture-Frame 

Materials. — Cardboard, round or oval. — Several strands of 
raffia. Approximate cost per child 01 

Cut the cardboard the size and shape desired. From the 
centre cut an opening the same shape, allowing an inch or 
one and one-half inches for the width of the frame. The 
largest end of a strand of raffia is brought up through the hole 
and tied, the knot being placed on the wrong side. The end 
is then put back through the opening, and brought up through 
the loop formed (see Fig. 2).. This is done closely all around 
the frame. When a new strand is needed, tie it to the old 
one, using an overhand or square knot. Care should be 
taken to keep all the knots on the wrong side of the frame. 
After the cardboard is filled, the edge may be further deco- 
rated by placing a fancy stitch around it, or a braid of raffia. 
The picture may be sewed in by the children. Raffia may be 
used, and a loop left for the hanger. If a neater finish is 
desired a piece of heavy paper may be glued' or sewed on the 
back and a Dennison hook attached. 

III. Napkin-Ring 

Materials. — 2 pieces of -J-inch flat splint, 8 inches. — Several 
strands raffia. — Linen thread, No. 60. — Tapestry needle, 
No. 20. — Sloyd knives. Approximate cost per child . .01 

Cut the two pieces of splint exactly the same length. 
Notch the ends and lap about an inch, and tie firmly with 



PLATE II 




RAFFIA 



i. Umbrella. 

7. Picture-frame. 

8. Picture-frame. 



g. Splint and raffia mat. 
10. Needle-book. 
12. Napkin-ring. 



13. Hats. 

16. Broom holder. 

17. Solomon's knot bag. 



A Few Suggestions for Raffia 



21 



the linen thread; be careful to have both 
circles the same size. Tie a piece of raffia to 
one circle and blanket-stitch, the same as the 
frame. Cover the other circle in like manner. 
In order to finish the blanket- 
stitch neatly, thread the finish- 
ing end into No. 20 tapestry 
needle, and bring the end 
through the first stitch. Fit 
the two circles together with 
the edge of the stitch to the 
outside, and catch them to- 
gether, using any fancy stitch 
which the children know. 
Feather-stitch and catch-stitch 
lend themselves nicely to this work (see Fig. 12). The rings 
may also be made of a single circle, in which case use two 
colors and make a stitch first with one, then with the other, 
keeping the two ends out on the opposite sides of the splint 
(see Fig. 13). 




Fig. 12. 



IV, Needle-Book 

Materials. — 2 circles of cardboard, 2% inches in diameter. — 
Several strands of raffia. — 2 circles of white flannel, 2 
inches in diameter. — Tapestry 
needles, No. 19. — Thimbles. Ap- 
proximate cost per child 01 

Cut the two circles from light- 
weight cardboard or Bristol board, 
and make a hole in the centre of 
each. Thread the needle with a 
strand of raffia, and bring it up 
through the hole in the centre; tie 
the end to hold it. Blanket-stitch 
Fig. 13. it in the same way as the picture- 




22 Occupations J or Little Fingers 

frame, using a needle to pass the ram a through the centre of 
the card. Blanket-stitch both circles, and fasten them to- 
gether at one side, catching in leaves of flannel at the same 
time. These leaves may be pinked, or finished with an even 
or uneven blanket-stitch. Two braids for tying the book 
may be made of the raffia and fastened to the circles opposite 
where they are caught together. 

V. Rain-Coat and Hat 

Materials. — Raffia. Approximate cost per child 01 

These primitive rain-coats are still worn by the coolies in 
some parts of Japan and other warm countries. If the 
children are studying primitive life, they will find the making 
of these little garments most interesting. The large coats are 
made of a sort of grass which is so thick that it serves the same 
purpose as a thatched roof. 

Take a piece of raffia about ten inches long, and tie on 
thirty-two double pieces of raffia about twelve inches long. 
These are tied on by doubling them in the centre and putting 
the loop under the main piece and pulling the ends up through 
the loop (see Fig. 9). After these are all tied, take one 
strand from each pair of knots and tie them together with an 
overhand knot about one inch from the first row. Then tie 
one string from each knot together, leaving out the first and 
last ones. Continue this for four or five rows, forming meshes 
(see Hammock, in Cord Work), leaving out the first and last 
string each time. If the children know how to braid, a fine 
three-strand braid may be used in place of the foundation 
strand of raffia. The ends of this braid form the ties which 
hold the coat in place around the neck. The hat is made by 
taking fourteen strands of raffia and tying them together at 
the top to form the point of the hat. Divide into groups of 
two strands each. Take a piece of raffia, double it in the 
centre and place it around one group, bringing both ends 



PLATE III 



23 




RAFFIA 



2. Splint and raffia mat. 

3. String ball. 



String ball. 
Braided mat. 



Braided basket. 
Coiled basket. 



14. Shopping bag. 

15. Rain coat and hat. 



24 



Occupations for Little Fingers 




toward you. Take the left-hand end, bring it over the right, 
in front of the first group and back of the next and out ; then 
the other end is brought over and under the next group and 

out in front. This is called 
pairing (see Fig. 14). This is 
done for two rows; then a new 
group is inserted between every 
three groups. Weave three rows 
of pairing, then leave a half-inch 
space; make another row of 
pairing, inserting a new group, 
between each two of the old 
ones. Continue pairing, spac- 
ing one-half inch apart, and taking one strand from each 
group and weaving them together (see Fig. 15) for three 
rows. The border or finish is 
made in the following manner: 
Take each group and place it 
under the next group to the 
right and up ; do this all around 
the hat, the last group passes 
through the loop formed by 
the first. The second row is 

made like the first, with the exception that the groups are 
brought under the first group to the right, and down instead 
of up. Cut off the ends, leaving about one inch. 




VI. Umbrella 

Materials. — J-inch flat splint, 4 pieces, 4 inches in length. — 
No. 2 rattan, 1 piece, 9 inches. — A few strands of raffia. 
Approximate cost per child 01 

Cross the four splints in the centre (see Fig. 16). Take a 
strand of raffia, double it and slip it around the back splint. 
Use paired weaving (see Fig. 14), and when the mat is two 



A Few Suggestions for Raj 



25 



inches in diameter, begin to draw 
the weavers a little tighter to make 
the curve of the umbrella. Con- 
tinue weaving until it is three 
inches in diameter. Thread the 
ends of the weaver into a tapestry 
needle and draw them into the 
weaving. Cut the ends of the 
splints in points. Take the piece 
of nine-inch rattan, push one end 
through the under centre splint. 
Double so that the ends meet, and wind with raffia to form 
the handle. 




Fig. 16. 



VIL Splint and Raffia Mat 

Materials. — J-inch flat splint, 8 pieces, 6 inches. — Several 
strands of raffia. — Tapestry needle, No. 19. Ap- 
proximate cost per child 01 

This mat is started in the same way as the umbrella. 
After working once around insert the four extra spokes, one 
at a time, between the original four (see Fig. 17). Con- 
tinue with paired weaving, being careful to have the spokes 

succeed each other in regu- 
lar order. Allow the mat to 
lie flat, and when within one 
inch of the end of the spokes 
fasten the weavers. Soak 
the ends of the splint in 
water for a short time to 
make them pliable. Turn 
them over and push them 
down into the weaving. The 
edge may be finished in a 
number of ways. Thread 
a tapestry needle with a 




Fig. 17. 



26 



Occupations for Little Fingers 



strand of raffia. Make a slanting stitch all around the edge ; 
turn, and work the other way, crossing each stitch made in 
the first row. The blanket-stitch may also be used (see 
Fig. 2). It is well to let the children use their own ideas, 
as far as possible, about finishing the edge. 



VIIL String Ball 

Materials. — 18 strands of raffia, plain and colored. — 1 small 
brass ring. — 1 ball of colored twine. Approximate cost 
per child 06 

Take nine strands of plain raffia and nine of colored. 
Double each strand and slip it on the ring in the same way as 
in making the hammock (see Fig. 9). Care should be taken 
to put the loop through the ring in the same direction each 
time, also to alternate the colors. After all the strands are 
looped on the ring, take one string of each 
color from every pair and knot together, 
using an overhand knot (see Fig. 18). The 
knots should be placed one inch from the 
ring. Tie all the strings together in this 
manner. In knotting the second row take 
the same colors and tie them together to 
form the mesh, spacing the knots about 
one and one-half inches below the first 
row. The third row should be like the 
first, and the fourth like the second. Care 
should be taken to keep the colors in 
stripes as it makes a much more attractive bag. Continue 
this until the bag is long enough to fit the ball of twine. 
The top of the bag may be finished in a number of ways, 
such as braiding the ends of the strands, and tying them 
together at the top with a loop for hanger. It is well to 
let the children use their own ideas about the finish at the 
top, only remember that there must be space enough left in 




Fig. 18. 



A Few Suggestions for Raffia 



27 



order to slip in the ball of twine. The end of the twine should 
come from the centre of the ball and fall through the ring 
at the bottom of the bag. 

Another way of starting the bag is to make a stirrup (or 
loop) of raffia and knot the strands on this. The knots are 
tied in the same manner as in the first bag, but the finish is 
different. The strands are all fastened together at the bottom 
of the bag instead of at the top, and the stirrup replaced by a 
braid of raffia for drawing up the bag and serving as a hanger. 



IX, Bag of Solomon's Knots 

Materials.— Plain raffia, 17 strands.— Colored raffia, 17 
strands. Approximate cost per child 02 

The knot for this bag is a little more difficult than the pre- 
ceding one, therefore it is better work for older children. 
Four strands are 
needed, two to act 
as the foundation 
cords and the other 
two to form the 
knot. Tie the 
thirty-four strands 
of raffia on to a stir- 
rup, the same as in 
the string bag, two 
colors in each knot, 
making seventeen 
groups in all. Take two groups and bring the two inside 
strands together and hold them. Bring the left-hand strand 
down and over the foundation strands, the right-hand strand 
down over the end of the left hand, under the foundation 
and up through the loop formed by the first (see Fig. 19). 
This forms half of the knot. The second step is like the 
first, but the right-hand strand is brought down first over the 





Fig. 19. 



28 Occupations for Little Fingers 

foundation, the left-hand one down over the end of the right, 
under the foundation, and up through the loop. This knot 
is really a square knot tied over the foundation cord. A row 
of these knots is tied all around the bag, about one inch from 
the top. In the second row leave out the first two strands and 
take two from each group, tying them to form meshes. Space 
the knots about one inch apart, being careful to keep the colors 
in stripes. The third row is like the first. Continue with the 
meshes until the bag is the desired depth. Fasten together at 
the bottom by tying the strands from the two sides together in 
groups of knots, using eight instead of four. Bars may be 
made by tying several knots on the same foundation. A pretty 
finish is made by putting several knots on the same foundation, 
but instead of placing first the right-hand one over and then 
the left, using the same hand each time. This alternates the 
colors and makes the bar twist. Fringe out the raffia at the 
ends of the bars. These bars may be put in the body of 
the bag for decoration. Finish at the top with a braid of 
raffia. A little bag of silk or cotton may be placed inside 
and drawn up with ribbons. 

X. Coiled Baskets 

Materials. — Raffia, plain and colored. — Tapestry needle, 
No. 19. — Thimble. Approximate cost per child... .02 

Take enough strands of raffia to make a coil about the size 
of the finger. Begin at the large end and wind with a strand 
of colored raffia, spacing about one-half inch apart. When 
the coil begins to get small add new strands to keep the size 
uniform. To piece the colored raffia tie the new strand to the 
old with an overhand knot, winding down the ends to make it 
as neat as possible. Have the children wind two or three 
yards and then tie the end of the winding strand to hold it in 
place before beginning to sew. Thread a piece of the plain 
raffia in the tapestry needle. Start from the large end of the 



A Few Suggestions for Raffia 



29 



coil, curve it around in as small a circle as possible, and fasten 
with two or three stitches (see Fig. 20a). Begin sewing with 
the pointed stitch (see Fig. 20b) taking it 
through the old coil into the new. The 
basket may be made in any shape. It is 
well to have the children draw a design of 
it before they start work. The shaping 

depends on the 

/ \ / \ / an gle at which 

the coil is laid. 

a 

Fig. 20. ^ n finishing, the 

end is sewed 
down on the inside of the basket, or brought over the top to 
the opposite side to form a handle. This basket is very 
simple, easy work, and is suitable for young children. 




XL Braided Basket 

Materials. — Raffia. — Tapestry needle, No. 19. — Thimble. 
Approximate cost per child 02 

Three-strand braiding has been described in the chapter on 
Cord Work under "Ties for Sailor Suits." Raffia braided in 
this style lends itself to many attractive articles. A three- 
strand braid is made, using three or four pieces of raffia in 
each strand of the braid. As the raffia is not the same size 
the whole of its length, it is necessary to piece it when it 
becomes thin. This is done by laying in a new strand where 
the old one is growing thin and braiding it in. After the 
braid is finished, these rough ends may be clipped off. Make 
about five yards of braid and then begin the sewing. Thread 
the tapestry needle with a strand of raffia, wind the be- 
ginning of the braid several times and take one stitch through 
to fasten it. Begin coiling, in the same way as in the first 
basket described, holding the braid on edge instead of flat. 
Take several stitches through to hold it firmly; then sew with 



30 Occupations for Little Fingers 

the same pointed stitch as described under the coiled basket. 
Keep the braid on edge, and continue until the bottom is 
about three inches in diameter. Begin building up the 
sides by laying each row outside of the former one, and lapping 
to about the centre. These braids will also have to be held 
at an angle to the bottom to make the sides flare as they should. 
When within three or four inches of the top a pattern may 
be introduced in the following manner: Make one strand of 
the braid of colored raffia, and continue braiding until you 
have enough for three rows around the basket; then make 
two strands of color for three rows more, then the whole 
braid of color for three rows. This decoration may be put 
in the centre of the basket in the same way, if desired. 

The finish at the top is made 
by sewing down the end of the 
braid firmly on the inside. 

XIL Braided Mat 

Materials. — Raffia, plain and 
colored. — Tapestry nee- 
dle, No. 19. — Thimble. 
Approximate cost per 
child 02 

The principle of the mat 
is the same as in the preced- 
ing basket. Make a three- 
strand braid, using plain and 
colored raffia, with two pieces in each strand of the braid. 
Start it in the same way as the braided basket, holding the 
braid on edge, and sew until the mat is the size desired, four 
or five inches in diameter. Then make the border around 
the edge, forming the braid in points or rings (see Fig. 21). 
This mat will take from five to eight yards of braiding, ac- 
cording to size. Finish by sewing the end down firmly on 
the under side. 




Fig. 21. 



A Few Suggestions for Raffia 31 



XIIL Doll's Hat 

Materials.— Raffia, plain and colored.— Tapestry needle, No. 
19-— Thimble. Approximate cost per child '. .02 

A four- or five-strand braid may be used for this, or, if 
given to young children, one of three strands. Four-strand 
braids are made in much the same as one of three, with the 
exception that one outside strand goes over the next and 
to the centre, and the other outside one under the next and to 
the centre. This principle holds with all even-numbered 
braiding, while in the uneven the outside strands always go 
over the next and toward the centre. If one keeps in mind 
the principle of weaving, braiding with any number of strands 
will be comparatively easy. The little hat is started the same 
as the basket, but the braid is laid flat instead of on the side. 
Form the top of the crown first, then the side crown by placing 
the braid at right angles to the top. The brim is made by 
placing the braid at right angles to the side crown. The 
children should have an idea of what shape they are to make 
the hat, and what the size of the crown is to be, before they 
start sewing. The trimming may be done with colored 
raffia or ribbon. These hats take about five yards of braid. 
Hats for the children may be made in the same manner; 
they take about one pound of raffia, and require about twelve 
yards of braid. 

XIV* Shopping-Bagf 

Materials. — A bunch of raffia. — Rattan, No. 4, 2 pieces, 15 
inches.— Brass rings, 2. — Netting-needle. — Mesh-stick. 
—Approximate cost per child 02 

This work will be found too difficult for young children, 
but is interesting to boys and girls of ten or twelve. 

The first step is to wind the netting-needle. Tie fifteen 
or more strands of raffia together to form long strings. Try 



32 



Occupations for Little Fingers 



to select strands that are of an even size. Begin to wind, 
holding the end with the thumb until it is fastened down. 
The raffia is brought around one of the points at the bottom, 
and carried up to the tongue at the top, where it is passed 
around it in the opposite direction from where it started. If 
it starts on the left-hand side of the needle, it passes around 
the tongue from right to left, so that each winding crosses 
the preceding one. Fill the needle as full as possible. Make 
a stirrup of raffia and tie the end from the netting-needle to it 
with an overhand knot about one inch from the stirrup. 
Hold the mesh-stick in the left hand between the thumb and 

first finger (see Fig. 
22), and the needle in 
the right hand. Bring 
the raffia over the 
mesh-stick, around it 
and up through the 
loop of the stirrup. 
Carry it down to the 
stick again, and hold 
it with the thumb. 
Throw the raffia to 
the left and bring the 
needle up through the 
loop formed (sec Fig. 22). Cast on fourteen stitches in this 
way. Slip out the mesh-stick, turn the work over, and begin 
the second row. This is made like the first, the needle pass- 
ing up through the loops formed by the first row of stitches. 
Care must be taken to tie the knot over the loop and not to 
let it slip below, as the netting will not then be firm (see 
Fig. 22). Make nineteen rows of netting, fasten the end 
and take out the stirrup. 

Bend the two pieces of rattan with the ends meeting in the 
centre. Braid two three-strand braids eleven inches long and 
run them through the meshes in order to draw up the bag at 




A Few Suggestions for Raffia 33 

the sides. Blanket-stitch the rings. Wind one curved end of 
rattan with raffia for about an inch. Insert the end of the 
braid which has been put through one ring between the two 
pieces, and wind down. Wind over the double rattan, keeping 
it flat, and catch in each loop of the netting at regular intervals. 
When one inch from the other end put in the second braid 
and ring and wind to the end of the rattan. The end of 
raffia is fastened by running it into the winding. Run the 
long end of the braid through the loops at the side of the netting 
and finish the other end of the bag in the same way as the first. 
The handles are made of heavy three-strand braids about 
eight inches long. These are fastened into the rings in the 
same manner as the strings of the hammock are bound (see 
Hammock, Chapter II). This same netting may be done 
with cord and made into a number of articles, such as but- 
terfly-nets, school-bags, etc. 



CHAPTER IV 

COARSE SEWING 

Coarse sewing has been introduced into some of the grade 
schools as one of the forms of manual training. Educators 
have realized for some time that the fine sewing and finely 
pricked cards of former years were not suited to the adjust- 
ments which it is possible for young children in the kinder- 
garten and early grades to make. In the study of primitive 
races, one notices the crudity of their early tools and efforts. 
Children in the same way, in learning the early control of 
their muscles, will begin in a very crude manner and will 
have much difficulty in using tools. 

The cardboard sewing of a very simple character may 
precede the canvas work. Scope should be given for creative 
thought in the decoration of the work and in planning for its 
use. Color, design, and the relation of line to space are 
incidentally taught. The fact that it is of use and finds a 
place in the life and thought of the child should be its excuse 
for being — if an excuse were necessary. Kindergarten cards 
may be used for this purpose or, if large articles are to be 
made, the Bristol board may be purchased by the sheet. In 
the cardboard sewing, the teacher should aim to have the 
designs carried out in long stitches. 

For the canvas work, burlap, basket burlap, Java canvas or 
burlap canvas may be used, the burlap being the most inex- 
pensive material for large classes. In the canvas work the 
children learn easily the form of the stitches which in later 
years are applied in the fine sewing. There is also much 

34 



Coarse Sewing 35 

scope in this work for the teaching of harmony of color and 
design. 

Raffia, either in plain or color, makes an inexpensive and 
effective material for decoration. Germantown wool or 
Poseidon cotton may also be used. San silk materially re- 
duces the cost, but is not so attractive. 



CARDBOARD SEWING 

I. Pen-wiper 

Materials. — Kindergarten cards, 5x5 inches. — Wool or 
Poseidon cotton, J skein. — Tapestry needles, No. 19 or 
No. 20. — Pricking-pad and needle. — Chamois or flannel, 
4x4 inches. ' Approximate cost per child 01 

Have a pattern pricked on the cards, the simpler the better. 
Begin with a knot and join the holes with long stitches; if 
the pattern can be followed on the back and face of the card, 
the work is more satisfactory. Work two cards alike, and 
join them together at one side, placing two leaves of chamois 
between. As far as possible let the children use their own 
ideas about fastening. 

Needle-books may be made in the same manner, by placing 
two leaves of pinked flannel between in place of chamois. 
The size of the cards may vary. 

II. Blotter 

Materials. — Bristol board. — Wool or Poseidon cotton, J skein. 
— Tapestry needles, No. 19 or No. 20. — Pricking-pad 
and needle. — Blotting-paper. Approximate cost per 
child 02 

After a simple pattern has been pricked on the card, it may 
be sewed in a manner similar to the pen-wiper. Place the 
blotting-paper, which is of the same size as the card, under it, 
and sew at the corners with a small cross-stitch. 



36 



PLATE IV 




COARSE SEWING 



i. Needle-book. 

2. Blotter. 

4. Napkin-ring. 



5. 1 1 air-receiver. 

6. Pencil-case. 

7. Blotter corner: 



8. Letter-case. 

9. Iron-holder 
10. Book-cover. 



11. Table-cover. 

15. Pin-ball. 

16. Bag. 



Coarse Serving 



37 



III. Match-scratcher 

Materials. — Kindergarten cards, 5x5 inches. — Wool or 
Poseidon cotton, J skein. — Tapestry needles, No. 19 or 
No. 20. — Pricking-pad and needle. — Sand-paper, 2x3 
inches. Approximate cost per child 01 

The design for the match-scratcher may be made on the 
upper part of the card, then pricked and sewed. Glue the 
sand-paper on the lower por- 
tion so that it is in the right 
relation to the space above. 

IV. Napkin-Ring 

Materials. — Burlap canvas, 
8x2 inches. — Wool or 
Poseidon cotton, J skein. 
— Thimbles. — Needles. — 
Tapestry, No. 19 or No. 
20. Approximate cost per 
child — .01 

Round evenly one end of the 
strip: this will be the lap in 
the finished ring. With an irregular blanket-stitch (see 
Fig. 23) work around all four sides to prevent it from fraying. 
Lap the round end over the square about one inch and sew 
through the two thicknesses with a decorative stitch. The 
initial of the child makes an interesting finish and serves as a 
means of distinguishing one from another at table. 




Fig. 23. 



V. Hair-Receiver 

Materials. — Burlap canvas, 5! x 5J inches. — Poseidon cotton, 
h skein. — Needles, tapestry, No. 1 9 or No. 20. — Thimbles. 
Approximate cost per child 02 

Carefully blanket-stitch three sides of the square (see Fig. 
24). Fold the side next to the unfinished side over the rough 



38 



Occupations for Little Fingers 



edge and tack in three or four places with small stitches. A 
loop of the cotton may be put through the pointed top and 
tied in a small bow. This serves as a hanger. 




Fig. 24. 



VL Pencil-Case 

Materials. — Burlap canvas, 13x2^ inches. — Poseidon cotton, 

J skein. — Needles, tapestry, 
No. 19 or No. 20. — Thim- 
bles. Approximate cost per 
child 002 

Round, evenly both ends 
of the strip. Fold one 
round end over to within 
two inches of the other. 
Pin carefully and blanket- 
stitch the edges. A simple 
running stitch (see Fig. 25) 
may be used as ornamentation through the middle of the 
case, but must 
be put on be- 
fore the ma- 
terial is fold- 1 1 
ed. If the 
running stitch 
is taken 
through the 
two thi ck- 

nesses, it will divide the case for two pencils. If no division 
is made, the case may be used as a tooth-brush holder. 




<**y*»w 



Fig. 25. 



VII. Blotter-Corners 

Materials. — 4 pieces of burlap canvas, 4} x 2J inches. — 
Poseidon cotton, \ skein. Approximate cost per child. .02 

Blanket-stitch the four sides of the strip (see Fig. 24). 



Coarse Sewing 



39 



Fold the ends together to 
meet the long side, thus 
forming a tent shape. With- 
in this triangle, which will 
appear on the upper side of 
the blotter, make some 
simple ornamentation with 
the cross-stitch (see Fig. 
26). This can be done be- 
fore the ends are tacked together on the under side. Slip the 
canvas on the corners of a large blotter and tack. 




VIII- Letter-Case 

Materials. — Burlap canvas, 6§ x 15 inches. — Poseidon cotton, 
1 \ skeins. — Crewel needle, No. 1 or No. 2. — Thimbles. 
Approximate cost per child 08 

Decide on a decoration which may take the form of a border 
across the ends or around the whole case (see Fig. 27). Use 
the cross-stitch and the running or back stitching in com- 
bination. Put an even or uneven blanket-stitch across the 

ends (see Figs. 
23 and 24). Fold 
the ends to with- 
in one-half inch 
of the centre, 
pin, and blanket- 
stitch the sides 
through the two 
thicknesses. Fin- 
ish with a cord 
and tassel made 
of Poseidon cot- 
ton tied on at 
Fig. 27. the centre. 




40 Occupations for Little Fingers 

Cord. — This is made by taking two strands of cotton and 
twisting them. Let two children work together, one twisting 
each way, double this cord in the centre, and twist together. 
Place a knot one inch from each end and fringe. 



IX* Iron-Holder 

Materials. — Basket burlap, 12x4 inches and 6x1 inches. — 

Poseidon cotton, 1 skein. 
«JL — Crewel needle, No. 2. — 
Xj>€ Thimble. Approximate 
cost per child 04 

Place the design in cross- 
stitch about two inches 
down from each end of 
the twelve-inch strip (see 
Fig. 28). Two colors may 
be used effectively. Finish 
the four-inch ends with an 
uneven blanket-stitch, fold 
them together evenly and 
continue the stitch at the sides. Finish the edges of the 
narrow strip in like manner, double and fasten it at the 
upper left corner for the hanger. Slip a piece of thin asbestos 
inside the case. 

X* Book-Cover 

Materials. 1 — Basket burlap, 6J x 10J inches. — Poseidon cotton, 
2 skeins. — Crewel needles, No. 2. Approximate cost 
per child 07 

Fold the burlap to find the centre of the longest side ; this 
will form the front of the cover. Place a simple design in 
the centre, using the cross-stitch (see Fig. 26), or a border 
made with a combination of the running-stitch, cross-stitch 
or back-stitch. Letters may also be used worked with cross- 




Coarse Sening 



41 



stitch. Finish the edge with an even blanket-stitch, and tie 
in several sheets of paper to form the leaves, using a cord 
and tassels. These books may be used for notes, recipes, 
scrap-books, etc. 

Magazine-covers may be made in the same way. Find 
the dimensions and place one one and one-half inch strip of 
canvas, finished at the edge with the blanket-stitch, at each 
end of the cover on the wrong side, and one and one-half 
inches in from each end. This will hold the cover of the 
magazine. 

XL Doll's Table-Cover 

Materials.— Java, canvas, 6x6 inches.— Raffia, plain or 
colored, 5 strands.— Crewel needles, No. 1. — Thimbles. 
Approximate cost per child 02 

The decorations on this article may be made with long 
stitches arranged systematically to form a line design. A 
border may be used, or the whole centre filled with decora- 
tion. The edge may be finished 
by turning up one-quarter of 
an inch and blanket-stitching, 
or by tying in a fringe. 




Fig. 29. 




Fringe.— Wind silk or raffia around a card, one and one- 
half inches wide, a number of times; cut through at one edge. 
In order to tie into the table-cover, use a small crochet-hook 
or a tapestry needle, No. 19; double each strand ; pull the loop 
through the edge (see Fig. 29), and draw the ends through the 
loop. 



42 



Occupations for Little Fingers 




Fig. 30. 



XIL Pillow for Doll's House 

Materials. — 2 pieces Java canvas, 6x6 inches. — Crewel 
needles, No. 1. — Cotton batting. — Thimble. Approxi- 
mate cost per child 03 

The decoration may be placed in the centre of the cushion 

or form a border around 
the edge. If it is to fill 
^g the centre, divide the 
square in quarters, 
either on the straight 
or the diagonal; this 
gives a centre to work 
from, and the spaces 
are to be filled with the 
repeat. 
Two or more colors may be used effectively in this decora- 
tion. After the design is worked, which should be done with 
long, straight stitches, lay 
the two squares face to- 
gether and sew around three 
sides, one-quarter of an inch 
from the edge, using two 
runs and a back-stitch 
(Fig. 30). Turn it right 
side out and stuff with cot- 
ton. Be careful to fill the 
corners well. Turn in the 
edges of the opening and 
run or overhand them to- 
gether (Fig. 31). Finish the edge with cord or a braid of 
raffia. 




Fig. 31. 



Coarse Sewing 



43 



XIIL Iron-holder 

Materials.— Denim, 5x5 inches.— Interlining, 4x4 inches. 
San silk.— Crewel needle, No. 2.— Thimble. Approx- 
imate cost per child 02 

Fold the interlining until it is four inches square. Fold a 
one-half inch turning around both pieces of denim, taking 
care to fold the opposite sides of the square first and then the 
remaining sides. Fit together at the corners by slipping the 
turnings under each other (they 
will lie much flatter). Baste 
the two sides, put in the inter- 
lining, and continue basting 
around the holder. Finish the 
edge with an overcasting stitch 
done in San silk (see Fig. 32), 
first one way all around and 
then cross each stitch, working 
in the opposite direction. Put 
a large cross or star in the 
centre; this will make a decora- 
tion and will also serve to hold 
the interlining. The legs of old stockings make excellent 
interlining for holders; fold them flat, the size required, and 
turn the end over to hold them. A loop of braid or tape 
may be added to one corner of the holder for a hanger; or a 
longer piece may be sewed on, with a safety pin in the other 
end to fasten it to the belt while in use. 




Fig. 32 



XIV* Bean-Bag 

Materials.— Denim, 5x10 inches.— Colored cotton, No. 50.— 
Needle, No. 7.— Beans. Approximate cost per child . .02 

Fold the denim to form a square with the right sides 
together and baste carefully around three sides. Sew two 



44 



Occupations for Little Fingers 




Fig. 



sides and half of the 
third, using a back- 
stitch (see Fig. 33) one- 
quarter of an inch from 
the edge. Turn inside 
out, being careful to 
make square corners. 
Fill with the beans; 

turn in the edge of the opening, baste, and sew, using an 

overhand stitch (see Fig. 31). 

XV. Pin-Ball 

Materials. — 2 cardboard circles, 2| inches in diameter. — 2 
circles of denim, 3J inches in diameter. — Poseidon 
cotton, \ skein. Approximate cost per child 01 

On one piece of denim sketch some pleasing design, and 
place it well in the centre. This may be outlined by couching 
with a thread of contrasting color (see Fig. 34). Couching is 
done by holding a heavy cord (as Poseidon) over the line of 
design and sewing it down with straight stitches of a finer 
silk ; the stitches to be taken about one-eighth of an inch apart. 
Make a row of running stitches one-eighth of an inch from 
the edge of the denim, slip in the circles of cardboard and 
draw up the thread. Catch firmly with long stitches back 
and forth. Gather the 
edge of the other circle in a 
similar way over the card- 
board. The two circles 
may be joined together 
back to back by holding 
a thread of Poseidon 
around the edge and over- 
handing it (see Fig. 31), 
or by simply overhanding 
the two together. 




Fig. 34. 



Coarse Sewing 45 



XVL Denim Bag: 

Materials. — Denim, 16x5^ inches. Heavy mercerized cotton, 
\ skein. — Needles. — Thimbles. — 40 cotton. Approx- 
imate cost per child 04 

Double the strip so that the two right sides are together. 
There will be no seam at the bottom of the bag. Seam the 
sides to within three inches of the top. Use a combination 
stitch of two runs and a back stitch (see Fig. 30). At each 
end, turn down one and three-quarter inches on the right side 
of the bag. Seam down each side for one and one-half 
inches — same width as used in the long seam of the bag. 
Turn this over to the wrong side. Turn under one-quarter 
of an inch and hem down. One-quarter of an inch above 
this hem, on both sides of the bag, make a running stitch for 
the casing. 

If the bag is to be ornamented, it must be done before it is 
seamed at the sides. The design should be very simple. 
Sketch it on paper, cut it out and paste it on an extra piece of 
denim. Cut out the denim according to design and baste 
this on the bag. The paper will be between the two pieces 
of denim. Take heavy mercerized cotton and lay around 
the design, couching it down with a different color (see Fig. 
34). In putting in the draw-string at the top, begin at one 
side, run the cord through the casing all the way around to 
where it was started. In starting the other string, begin at the 
opposite side and run it around in the other direction to the 
first string. Draw up the cords and sew or tie the ends 
together. 

The bags may be used for work-bags, marbles, or, if larger 
in size, for skates. 



CHAPTER V 

PAPER CUTTING AND FOLDING 

Paper cutting and folding are other forms of handwork 
which may be used in many delightful ways at home, or 
in the school-room in connection with other studies. It is 
closely allied to drawing and cultivates alertness and powers 
of observation, especially when the cutting is free-hand work. 

Many forms of symmetry and life may be made with the 
kindergarten folding papers, and are of deep interest to the 
children. As the fingers grow in strength, a heavier paper or 
cardboard may he used for the construction work. Plain 
cartridge wall-paper is inexpensive and can be used ad- 
vantageously in large classes. Bogus paper and even news- 
papers may be utilized in a similar way. 

In lessons in folding, the children must learn to follow the 
directions given in a quick, accurate way. 

For the work in cutting or silhouetting plain black or white 
paper is the best. Kindergarten papers 4x4 inches may be 
bought in all colors and are best adapted for the conventional 
designs. These may be mounted on the tops of boxes and 
other articles as a decoration, or used in stencil work, as ex- 
plained in the following chapter. With young children it is 
preferable to use blunt-pointed scissors and inexpensive 
paper. 

The following outlines may be suggestive of much that may 
be worked out in relation to the other class-room work. It 
may be a foundation for later work in more difficult con- 
struction. 

46 



PLATE V 



47 



VVIMlflllilllf 



ttffittt 






W' 



i. Accordion. 
2. Paper dolls. 



PAPER CUTTING 

3. Stencil. 

4. Free-hand cutting. 



5. Free-hand cutting. 

6. Paper tearing. 



48 



Occupations for Little Fingers 




L A Simple Transparency 

Materials. — Gray card, 4x5 inches. — Yellow tissue paper, 
4x5 inches. — Poseidon or cord, { yard. Approximate 

cost per child 01 

Have the children draw a picture of a crescent moon and a 

star (see Fig. 35). If the un- 

glazed card is used, draw at 

once upon it, as mistakes are 

easily erased; otherwise, the 

sketch may first be made upon 

a slip of paper. Cut on the 

line sketched and remove the 

moon and star. These may 

be pasted on another card if 

cut away without being torn. 

On the other side paste the 

p IG 35 yellow tissue paper and make 

two holes at the top for 

the cord. This transparency may be hung in the window. 

Any other designs may be cut from the card in a similar 

way. 

II* Paper Accordion 

Materials. — 2 strips of paper, 2 yards x 1 J inches. 

The paper accordions afford a great deal of amusement to 
very young children. They may be 
made of newspaper or any scraps of 
colored paper — red, white, and blue 
are especially pleasing. If made of 
the colors, the strips must be pasted 
together first, so that the accordion 
is started with two long pieces one 
and one-half inches wide. Lap strip 
a on strip b (see Fig. 36), so that a 
square is formed at c. The ac- Fig. 36. 



QJ 



Paper Cutting and Folding 



49 



cordion is built up on this square. Fold b over a on the 
square c, fold a over b; continue until the strips have all been 
folded. 

If made of color, the accordions are a pleasing Christmas- 
tree decoration. They may be made of strips of any width, 
and any number of yards may be put in each. For young 
children do not cut the strips too narrow. 



IIL Pin-Wheel 



5x5 inches. — 1 \ inch 



Materials. — 1 square of .paper, 
dowel-stick, 8 inches. 

Find the centre of the paper and place a dot. Fold the 
square corner to corner, both ways, to crease the diagonals. 
Cut on these lines . 
from each corner of 
the square to within 
half an inch of the 
centre (see Fig. 37). 
After cutting, there 
will be eight points, 
two at each corner of 
the square. Every 
other point is to be 
lapped over the centre 
and the pin put 
through the five thick- 
nesses. A small 
square of paper of 
another color may be put on before the pin is put through the 
pin-wheel and pressed into the end of the stick. 

Pin-wheels may be made of two thicknesses of paper and of 
two colors ; they are then cut together and one color forms the 
lining. They run better when made in this way. 




Fig. 37. 



50 



Occupations for Little Fingers 



IV, Paper Dolls 

Materials. — i strip of paper, i yard by 4 inches. 

Fold the paper so that the two short edges will lie together. 
This will make the strip half a yard in length, but of two 
thicknesses. Fold again in a similar way, making four 
thicknesses. Continue until the strip is folded to about a 
width of one and one-half inches. With the scissors cut in a 
free way the outline of the doll; if necessary, sketch it before 
cutting (see Fig. 38). Care must be taken not to cut through 
the folds at a and b of the sketch, as the 
dolls will not be joined if the folds are cut. 
The father doll and children may also 
be made in a similar way. Animals make 
an interesting variation (see Plate V, No. 6). 

V. Designs for Stencils 

Materials. — Strips of heavy paraffine or 
oiled paper. 

Plate V, No. 3, shows a stencil which 
has been made from a strip of paper three 
by ten inches. Ordinary heavy brown 
Fig. 38. paper may be used if no oiled paper is 

available. Fold in the same manner as the 
strip for the paper dolls, and cut the design free-hand. It 
is impossible to determine before cutting what the design is 
to be, and the surprises when the strip is unfolded are often 
very satisfactory. 

The stencil may be used as a strip where a repetition of units 
is desired, or one unit may be cut away and used in the 
decoration of objects. India-ink or water-colors may be 
used with the stencil on the gray mat paper. 

Mats, sofa-cushions, screens, curtains, etc., may be deco- 
rated by use of the stencil with paints or dyes. 




Paper Cutting and Folding 



51 



VL Free Cutting of Conventional Designs 

Materials. — Squares of paper of any color. 

Place the square on the table so that it lies with the corner 
toward you. Turn the corner nearest you until it lies on the 
one opposite, a-b is the folded edge toward you (see Fig. 39). 
Fold again so that point b lies on a. The triangle is then pre- 




Fig. 39. 



pared for cutting; this may be done in any free way. Plate 
VI, No. 3, shows several results of this conventional cutting. 
The pieces cut may be used in the decoration of boxes or 
other objects. 



VIL Free Cutting or Tearing of Objects 

Materials. — White or black paper. 

Either the glazed or unglazed paper may be used for this 
purpose. The object to be copied may be placed before the 
children, or free range given to the imagination if objects are 



52 



Occupations for Little Fingers 



not available. No directions should be given, as they should 
be allowed to cut or tear in a free way. Astonishing results 
are often obtained. Single objects or scenes may be por- 
trayed, and profiles of friends and classmates made en 
silhouette. This work is interesting to the older children, 
and the results are very pleasing (see Plate V, No. 6). 

VIIL Picture-Frame 

Materials. — i square of paper, 8x8 inches. — 3 pieces of 
Poseidon or ribbon, 6 inches each. — 1 piece of Poseidon, 
10 inches. 

Find the centre of the paper and fold all four corners until 
they meet at that centre (see Fig. 40 a-b). Fold the same 
corners back to the side of square first formed. 

Holes may be punched through the double thicknesses 




^7> 



Fig. 40. 



and small bows tied in three corners (see Plate VI, No. 4). 
The longest ribbon is used for the hanger at the fourth 
corner. 

Wall-paper, if it is a plain color, cartridge, or bogus paper 
may be used for folding. 



Paper Cut ting mid Folding 



53 



IX, Newspaper-Holder or Wall -Pocket 

Materials.- — i square of cardboard, 8x8 inches. — i piece of 
Poseidon or ribbon, 8 inches. — i piece of Poseidon or 
ribbon, io inches. 

One inch from the two opposite corners a and b make holes 
with a punch or scissors (see Fig. 41 -1). Fold a and b until 
the holes lie on top of each other. Tie the eight-inch piece of 
ribbon through the two holes and around the card to hold it 
securely in place (see Fig. 41-2). 
At c and d of sketch 2, make 
holes through the two thick- 
nesses and put the ten-inch rib- 
bon through for a hanger (see 
Plate VI, No. 5). 

X. Office-Card 

Materials. — 1 gra^ card, 8x8 
inches. — 2 pieces white card- 
board, 6 x 1 \ inches. 

Four slits are to be cut in the 
square card to enable the free 
passage of the white cardboard 
strips. From the upper right- 
hand corner measure down one 
and three-quarter inches and 
place a dot. Measure in from the dot to the edge of the paper 
two and one-half inches and place another dot ; from this dot 
cut with a penknife, using a ruler for guide, a slit one and 
three-eighths inches long and parallel to the edge of the card. 
Two inches below the end of this slit cut another, one and three- 
eighths inches long, and also parallel to the edge. Three 
inches to the left of both slits cut two more, exactly parallel 
to them and two and one-half inches from the left-hand edge. 




Fig. 41. 



54 



Occupations for* Little Fingers 



The words "In" and " Out" are to be printed in the middle 
of the white strips, and the strips turned, as occasion de- 
mands. This makes a useful article to hang in the hallway. 
It is possible to have the name of the person using it printed 

above the upper strip or between 
the two. Make two holes at the 
top for the ribbon hanger. 



XL Screen for Doll's House 

Materials. — Gray mounting paper, 
6x9 inches. 

Divide the oblong into three 
sections of three by six inches. 
Rule the division lines lightly, 
lengthwise of the cardboard. 
With a horseshoe-nail score the 
cardboard, using a ruler for 
guide; bend and fold in thirds. 
At the bottom and top of each 
section, remove a piece of card- 
board, two by one-half inches to 
make the feet and finish for the 

top of the screen. In order to do so accurately, measure in 

from each edge one-half an inch and down one-half an inch 

and cut out (see Fig. 42). 

The screen may be decorated with the stencilled design, 

or left perfectly plain. 



Fig. 42. 



XIL Envelopes 

Materials. — Cartridge paper, or any suitable kind for fancy 
or plain envelopes. 

The envelopes may be made of any dimension, according to 
the size desired. For note-paper and the children's use in 



Paper Cutting and Folding 



55 



Cu 





A 




/ 


l a. 




\ 


U- 3 











Fig. 43. 



class, have them cut the paper six by 
eight inches and divide it into two- 
inch squares. Rule lightly, so that 
the lines may not show on the finished 
envelope. 

Remove the four corner squares 
(see Fig. 43). Draw lines connecting 
point b with 1 and 2, a with 1 and 4, c 
with 2 and 3, d with 3 and 4. Cut out 
the envelope on the lines just drawn. 
Fold down the two sharp points b and 
d. Point a is folded over them and 
glued where the two edges cover each other, the fourth side 
is for sealing. 

XIIL Square Box with Cover 

Materials. — Gray cardboard. — 1 4-inch sheet of colored 
kindergarten paper. 

Draw a three and one-half inch square. From each corner 
continue the lines one and one-half inches. Connect the 
lines drawn to form the sides of the box. After it is cut, it is 

to be folded into 
shape, but some al- 
lowance must be made 
for pasting the corners 
before the outline of 
the box is cut (see Fig. 
44). In every corner 
make an allowance of 
one-quarter of an inch 
according to the dot- 
ted lines. Cut out the 
box with care, espe- 
cially where the al- 
Fig. 44. lowance has been 





1 \ 












1 ! 





56 



Occupations for Little Fingers 



made for the turnings. Score, fold into shape, and glue the 
corners. 

Cover. — Draw a square three and three-quarter inches. 
Continue the lines from the corner one inch in both directions. 
Connect the lines to form the sides of the cover (see Fig. 44). 
Make the corner allowances for pasting, the same as the 
bottom of the box. 

The cover may be decorated with the sheet of kindergarten 
paper. Fold it as described under Conventional Cutting, 
and make a free-hand form. 



XIV. Lamp or Candle Shade, No. \ 

Materials. — Gray cardboard. — 3 yards of Poseidon or baby 
ribbon. 

This shade is composed of five pieces of similar shape, tied 
together. One piece must be drawn according to dimensions, 
and the others cut the same size. 




Draw a line four inches long and bisect it. From the point 
of bisection erect a perpendicular line two and one-half inches 
long. On each side of the perpendicular draw a line one inch 



Paper Cutting and Folding 



57 



in length and parallel to the four-inch line. Connect the 
ends of the four-inch line with the ends of the line drawn 
parallel to it (see Fig. 45). Cut out the form and make four 
other pieces like it. Sketch the same simple design on all. 
After drawing the design, the outline may be pricked with a 
pin and the portion of cardboard inside the outline perforated 
with pinholes. Use a large pin and have the rough side of 
the pricking for the outside — in other words, prick from the 
inside toward the outside. The perforations allow the light 
to shine through. In each angle of all five pieces make a hole 
with a punch and tie them into shape. The four-inch sides 
of the forms make the bottom of the shade. 



XV. Lamp Shade, No. 2 

Materials. — Cardboard. — Rice paper. — India-ink. 

This shade is made up of four sides, and a portion of each is 
cut away and rice paper used for the transparency. 

Draw an eight-inch line and bisect it. Erect a perpendicular 
from the point of bisection, four inches in length. On each 
side of the end of the perpendicular erected, and at right 
angles to it, 
draw a two- 
inch line. 
Connect the 
ends of the 
two-inch lines 
with the ends 
of the eight- 
inch line. Cut 

out the form drawn, and make three others like it. Three- 
quarters of an inch inside of the edge of the forms made, 
draw another outline parallel to it (see Fig. 46). With a 
penknife cut carefully on the line just drawn and remove the 
piece of cardboard from the centre of the form. Cut four 




Fig. 46. 



58 



PLATE VI 




PAPER CUTTING AND FOLDING 



i. 1 ransparency. 

2. Pin-wheel. 

3. Conventional cutting. 



Picture-frame. 
Wall-pocket. 
Office card. 



7. Screen. 

8. Envelope. 

9. Box. 



to. Lamp-shade, 
[i. Lamp-shade. 



Paper Cutting and Folding 59 

pieces of rice paper a trifle smaller than the original form 
and make some simple design on them, using India-ink. 
Paste one beneath each piece of cardboard. Care must be 
taken to have the designs well placed in the space from which 
the cardboard has been removed. 

If this work is executed neatly a very attractive lampshade 
may be made. After the four sides have been prepared, they 
may be pasted together with paper hinges. 



CHAPTER VI 

SOME STORIES IN CLAY 

Clay offers another medium of free expression for the 
child. He has the whole world and life about him bringing 
him daily impressions, and as he expresses himself in various 
ways he learns to understand this world of things. Many a 
story has been worked out and told on the sands of the sea- 
shore and in the mud-pie period of childhood. 

Clay modelling may be made of deep significance and 
educational vame. It cultivates careful attention and obser- 
vation, and is of interest to the child. The work of young 
children will necessarily be crude — but it is still the childish 
expression, and high art is not the aim of this work. 

Potters' gray clay is the best material for this purpose. It 
should be as free from lumps as possible, and not too brittle 
when presented for use. It should be kept moist in tin boxes, 
or in an iron pail covered with a rubber cloth, to prevent 
evaporation. 

Old slates or squares of oil-cloth for protection of the desks 
may be used, but if these are not available, heavy glazed paper 
will answer. It is not necessary to have many tools for this 
simple work. Knitting-needles, hairpins, wooden toothpicks, 
slate-pencils and small pieces of string or wire, will be found 
of much help. The handle of a spoon makes a good tool. 
Kindergarten supply places offer tools for sale ; they are help- 
ful, but one can manage without them, if money is not 
available for the purpose. 

Before presenting the clay to the child, the teacher should 
see that it is in a favorable condition. It should be soft, and 
yield easily to the pressure of the thumb, but not sticky. 

60 



PLATE VII 



61 




i. Bird life. 

2. Plant life. 

3. Seashore life. 



CLAY MODELLING 

4. Vegetable life. 

5. Animal life. 

6. Home life. 



7. Scene. 

8. Bowl. 

9. Beehive. 



62 Occupations for Little Fingers 

The object to be modelled should, if possible, be placed 
before the child, but if certain stories are to be worked out, 
the teacher may in a measure rely upon his imaginative 
genius. Clay will be found a very helpful medium used in 
connection with stories of primitive life, and truly deepens the 
rhildish impressions of things in days that are past. 

L Bird Life 

Materials. — Potters' clay. 

A simple story may be told by the teacher or mother, 
illustrating the building of the bird's nest, the laying and 
hatching of the eggs, and the flight of the young birds. In 
one lesson the nest and eggs, with mother and father bird 
may be made, and in the second, the eggs removed and the 
small birds substituted. 

Take a small lump of clay about the size of a large egg. 
Make a small indentation toward the centre with the pressure 
of the thumb. Gradually work around with the thumb 
and hold the clay in the palm of the left hand until a small cup 
shape is formed. Roughen the outside of the nest with a piece 
of wire or a toothpick. Take three or four small pieces of the 
clay and form into egg shapes by rolling them around between 
the palms. The teacher will find the real objects of great 
assistance, and the children can readily copy them. Small 
birds may be made of any size by rolling the small lump of 
clay, as for the eggs, and then pinching the sides to form 
wings (see Plate VII, No. i). 

II. Plant Life 

Materials. — Potters' clay. — Oak-leaves and acorns. 

Give each child a small lump of clay. Press it into a plinth 
or slab three-quarters of an inch in thickness. Lay the 
leaf on the clay and press it into it until the indentations of 



Some Stories in Clay 



63 



veins and shape are made. The leaf may then be removed, 
or the outline shape cut with a knitting-needle before dis- 
placing it. The small pieces of clay left may be formed into 
acorns. Roll a small lump of clay between the palms. 
Each child may be given an acorn to copy and the shaping 
and roughness of the acorn-cup made with a hairpin or piece 
of wood. 

Impressions of various leaves and flowers, coins, etc., may 
be made in a similar way. If impressions are made of 
flowers, they may be colored after the clay is dry. This 
makes a very pleasant variation (see Plate VII, No. 2). 



Ill* Seashore Life 

Materials. — Potters' clay. — Shells. — Pictures of fish. 

A story of seashore life may be told by the teacher, and the 
children each given a shell to copy. A lump of clay about 
half the size of an egg may be rolled between the palms. 
Place the clay within the shell to get the impression. After 
this has been made and the shell used as a cutter for the shape, 
make the finish- 
ing markings of 
the shell with the 
wire tool or hair- 
pin. 

The picture of ^ IG# 47 

a fish may be 

placed before the children. Make a plinth three-quarters of 
an inch thick and about 2x4 inches. With the wire, mark 
an outline of a fish on the clay (see Fig. 47). Use the wire 
for cutting out the fish and roughening the fins. 

A basket for fish and shells may also be made. Make the 
basket of coils of clay. These may be rolled between the 
palms and made.' about the thickness of a peppermint stick. 
Coil the roll to form the bottom, and when that is sufficiently 




64 



Occupations for Little Fingers 



large, the sides may be formed by allowing one coil 
to overlap another (see Fig. 48). A twisted coil of clay 
may be made for the handle and pressed against the sides of 

the basket until securely placed 
(see Plate VII, No. 3). 

IV* Vegetable Life 

Materials. — Potters' clay. — Pota- 
to, tomato, and carrot. 

Have the children bring a vege- 
table from home, or the teacher 
may supply one for general obser- 
vation. 

Give each child a lump of clay 
and a piece of wood or wire for a tool and allow him to copy 
the shape of the vegetable placed before the class. Only one 
object at a time should be given. About one-quarter of a 
pound is needed for each piece. Such lessons are most in- 
teresting around Thanksgiving time, when stories of the 
harvest are most appropriate (see Plate VII, No. 4). 




Fig. 48. 



V* Animal Life 

Materials. — Potters' clay. — Pictures of butterfly, cocoon, and 
worm, and, if possible, the real objects, as the teacher 
tells the story. 

The worm is the first thing to be made in the natural order 
of sequence. This may be made by rolling a small lump into 
an oblong roll. Small pieces of clay may be removed where 
the eyes of the worm should appear, and the under surface 
roughened with the wire tool. The chrysalis stage is easily 
made by the children, but the butterfly is more difficult for 
little fingers. To begin it, make a roll of clay about the size 
of the worm ; roughen the under part. Take two small lumps 



Some Stories in Clay 65 

of clay, flatten them and form into the shape of wings, 
using the wire tool. It is expected that the results will be 
crude. The worm may be colored green, and the butterfly 
an appropriate color, after the clay is dry. 

This will probably take two or three lessons to work out. 

The butterfly may also be made on a plinth. The outline 
must first be drawn with the wire tool. Small pieces of clay 
may then be added to form the wings in relief, but this work 
will be found a little more difficult for young children. 

The beehive and bee makes an easy and attractive lesson. 
Pictures of a hive are easily obtainable, and the small mounds 
readily made. The foundation is a small lump formed into a 
round ball between the palms. It may then be flattened on 
one side by placing it on the slate and the rest of the moulding 
and markings made according to the pictures. Very small 
pieces of clay may be made into bees by rolling the clay into 
small balls and pinching the sides for wings (see Plate VII, 
No. 9). 

VI* Home Life 

Materials. — Potters' clay. — Home objects. 

The children may play that they are housekeepers and 
have a loaf of bread to make. The teacher or mother may 
tell a story of how this is done. The children may make the 
bowl, rolling-pin, and finished loaf of bread. These are 
easily formed from the real objects, but, of course, made 
miniature in size. 

A lesson in this connection may be given when the story 
of butter-making is told and the simple churn modelled in 
the clay (see Plate VII, No. 6). 

VIL Pictures in Clay 

Many interesting lessons may be given by having the 
children draw on the clay with the wire tool. The aim is, of 
course, free expression, as in the drawing on paper or black- 



66 



Occupations for Little Fingers 



board. A plinth about three-quarters of an inch thick and 
6x4 inches makes a good size. Care should be taken to 
have the corners well formed. Any story of interest in con- 
nection with the work of the class, or any story the mother 
may tell can be drawn upon the clay (see Plate VII, No. 7). 
For instance, a story of the sea and a boat may be drawn, 
and the water colored blue and the sails white, or the sketch 
may be drawn without coloring. 

VIIL Other Objects in Clay 

There are many objects used in the children's daily life 
which may be copied by them. These may be placed before 
the class and the children allowed to work them out in an 
individual way. As the work becomes more difficult, the 
children may be taught to make a bowl by coiling and smooth- 




Fig. 49. 



ing the coils. This is perhaps not so easy, but it offers a 
variation in method of working. The bowl is started with a 
coil at the bottom, and as each row is added it is smoothed 
downward both inside and out, and the surface finished in 
this way (see Fig. 49). A simple design in line may be made 
around the top with a wire (see Plate VII, No. 8). 



CHAPTER VII 

WEAVING 

There is no industrial history quite so interesting as that 
of the development of weaving. Few people think of the 
evolution of this wonderful art, or of the many processes 
through which a garment has actually passed. It is probably 
the first art which primitive people practised. 

Weaving can be traced to early biblical times. The 
Israelites were well versed in it, as well as in spinning 
and dyeing. For centuries weaving has been practised in 
Egypt, China, and India. 

Until within the last one hundred and fifty years, the style 
of loom employed was very primitive, and even to-day in 
British India and in America among the Indians, very simple 
looms are still in use. The Egyptians are generally accredited 
with the invention of the loom. 

In the most primitive ones there are two beams or sticks. 
Between these the warp threads are strung, and the woof 
woven under and over with the fingers. A step in advance 
of this is the use of a stick as shuttle, upon which the woof is 
wound. The evolution of warp and cloth rollers and of batten 
and shuttle is most interesting, and in the wonderful Jacquard 
loom of to-day, with its great facilities for beautiful pattern 
weaving, one hardly recognizes the primitive friend of cen- 
turies ago. 

With the introduction of steam power and modern inven- 
tions, many of the hand-looms of colonial times were stored in 
the attics. During the past few years, the revival of handi- 
crafts has brought them from their hiding-places. Many 



68 Occupations for Little Fingers 

beautiful specimens of hand weaving made on such looms, 
may be seen at the arts and crafts shops in the leading cities. 

Weaving as a school or home subject may be made most 
interesting to children. It offers so many opportunities for 
originality in the way of designing, and is easily executed 
by the youngest children in the grades. In connection with 
the study of primitive life, there is nothing more fascinating 
to the child than the weaving of a stockade of splints, a mat 
of rushes for the house, or the Indian blanket on a tiny loom, 
which he has made. As the study of weaving progresses, 
simple looms may be made out of paper boxes, and the 
heddle of the Zuni Indian studied. Still another step may be 
introduced with the warp and cloth rollers and the material 
actually woven and rolled from one to the other. The study 
of heddle and treadle weaving makes an interesting problem 
for the upper grades or high-school children. Circular 
weaving is an interesting variation, and numerous small 
articles may be made from the woven circles. 

Many materials may be utilized in this work : Germantown 
wool, carpet yarn, raffia, silkoline, rags, and candle-wicking 
may all serve the purpose. In the early stages of the work, 
the paper weaving of the kindergarten may be given, as well 
as the weaving of splints. 

Macrame cord makes a good foundation for the warp when 
Germantown wools or carpet yarns are used as woof. 

Weaving develops a dexterity of hand and tends to increase 
thought with skill. The child is trained in perseverance and 
patience, and there is joy in actually producing the woven 
fabric. 

Community feeling may be developed by having the children 
work for a common object. A number of the small rugs 
woven by them may be sewed together, and a large one for 
the class-room made. The work may be planned in such a 
way that certain children weave the borders and others the 
plain part of the rug. 



Weaving 



69 



Weaving offers many opportunities for the introduction of 
simple and pleasing designs. These may be worked out in 
the drawing period, and utilized when opportunity presents 
itself. 



L Splint "Weaving 

Materials. — 8 pieces of J-inch flat rattan or splint 
long. Approximate 



inches 



<C 



cost per child ... .01 

Have the children 
point both ends of 
each piece of splint, 
with the scissors. Lay 
four splints side by 
side on the table, with 
the ends pointing up 
and down. Take the 
fifth splint in the right 
hand and weave over 
No. 1, under No. 2, 
over No. 3, and under 
No. 4. Hold them 
flat with the palm of the 
left hand. Take splint 
No. 6 and weave under 
No. 1, over No. 2, under 
No. 3, and over No. 4. 
No. 7 is woven like No. 
5 and No. 8 like No. 6. 
This may be called a 
mat, stockade, or fence. 
If utilized for portion of 
a fence on the sand table, 
the two upper splints 
may be moved together 



< 



A 



A 



MB 



A 



A 



<ZJ 



m 



-mi 



lilll 



imnu 



V 



iii 



> 



\ 



> 



v 



A 



<3 



A 



L \mi\i 



wm 



m 



< 



idlh 



Mil 



W 



m 



FiiTT 



jllh. 



1M 



> 



mr, 



VV , V 



> 



V 



Fig. 50. 



70 Occupations for Little Fingers 

and the two lower ones, to form a rail (see Fig. 50, a 
and b). 

This simple work should teach the principle of weaving; 
which is over and under every other splint. 

IL Paper Weaving; 

Materials. — 1 kindergarten mat and strips. — Small piece of 
cotton wadding. Approximate cost per child 01 

It is hardly necessary to describe the familiar kindergarten 
weaving. This may be done in a very coarse way on mats 
of bogus paper before the more delicate papers are utilized. 
This weaving offers many opportunities for variation of design 
and change of color, and many attractive articles can be made 
from the mats. After weaving a square mat, it may be folded 
in a triangular shape and a sheet of wadding with sachet 
placed inside. The edges may then be pasted together. 
This is a very simple article for the child to make. 

Ill* Woven Hammock 

Materials. — Carpet yarn or Germantown wool. — Macrame 
cord or twine. — Pasteboard, 6x8 inches. — 2 brass rings. 
Approximate cost per child .03 

In the card, 6x8 inches, punch two rows of holes about one 
quarter of an inch apart. These rows may be placed one inch 

from the top and bottom of the card, 
and a margin of one inch left on each 
side of the rows. Plate No. 8 will 
show the arrangement of the rows 
of holes. In the middle of the back 
of the card sew loosely the two 
brass rings which have previously 
been tied together (see Fig. 51). The warp threads of the 
hammock will be the long cords on the right side of the card- 
board. The woof is the thread, which is continuous and is 




Weaving 71 

put in to form the woven material and selvage. Tie one 
end of the macrame cord through brass ring No. i . Put the 
other end of cord through the first hole of the lower row, 
bring it through to the right side, and draw it through hole 
No. i on the upper row and down on the wrong side to the 
second brass ring. Pass it through the ring and back to the 
second hole on the upper row, then through the second hole 
on the lower row and through ring No. i again. Sixteen or 
seventeen holes make a very good width for the small ham- 
mock, and there should, consequently, be seventeen warp cords. 

The woof thread is continuous, and so forms the selvage 
by passing around the outside warp threads. The weaving 
is simple weaving, over and under one, back and forth. 
Bands of another color may be introduced to form stripes 
in the hammock. When the weaving has been finished, it 
should extend from row to row of holes. The ends of the 
finishing, and also the beginning of the woof, may be run in 
underneath so as to be hidden. 

The cardboard may then be cut away and the hammock 
cords bound below the brass rings. 

If it is desirable to save the cardboard, the ends of the cords 
which passed around the rings may be cut and looped around 
the rings afterward and bound. In order to preserve the 
cardboard, the rows of holes may be cut at the edge of the 
cardboard and the cords passed through the indentations. 
It will not be necessary then to cut the cords. The hammock 
in Plate VIII, No. 3, has been made in this way. Mats may 
also be woven in a similar manner, but it is not necessary to 
have the warp long on the wrong side of the card. Pass the 
cord from hole No. 1 on the lower row up on the right side 
of the card through hole No. 1 on the upper row. Pass it 
through hole No. 2 on the upper row from the wrong to the 
right side, and down again to hole No. 2 on the lower row. 
The ends may be cut on the wrong side after the mat is 
finished, and a fringe tied with the ends. 



72 



Occupations for Little Fingers 



Simple designs may be introduced, but it is not advisable 
until the children have had some experience in weaving and 
putting in bands of color. Plaids and stripes may be made 
by having some of the warp threads of different colors. 
Plate VIII, No: 7, shows some plaids woven in this manner. 
This is a very simple loom, and very inexpensive. 



IV* Rug Weaving 

Materials. — Macrame cord, No. 6. — Germantown wool, or 
carpet yarn. 

Another step in the history of weaving is taken when some 
method of raising and lowering the alternate sets of threads 
is introduced. The teacher should begin this work with a 
development lesson in weaving and a talk about loom con- 
struction. The history of the Zuni Indian method of raising 
the threads is very interesting to children. Simple looms 
may be made of a pasteboard or cigar-box. If the candy- 
box is used, make a row of holes in each end of the box and 
near to the top; if a 



©OOOOOOQOO o 



Fig. 52. 



cigar-box serves the 
purpose, a row of 
nails must be placed 
along the edge of each 
end of the box (Plate 
IX, No. 1 and No. 2, 
shows two such looms). In loom weaving of this descrip- 
tion the children must understand the parts thoroughly be- 
fore beginning the construction. Warp and woof must be 
well understood. The shuttle may be a piece of cardboard 
around which the woof is wound before it is passed between 
the threads; it may be simply a stick, or the fingers may be 
used as a shuttle for passing the woof. The arrangement for 
alternating the threads is called a heddle. The Zuni Indian 
system was a simple one (see Fig. 52). Thread No. 1 is passed 



PLATE VIII 



73 




i. Splints. 

2. Paper weaving 

3. Hammock. 



WEAVING 



4. Mat. 

5. Raffia mat. 

6. Indian blanket. 



7. Plaid weaving. 

8. Small rug. 

9. Circular weaving. 



10. Circular mat. 

11. Circular pocket. 

12. Bag. 



74 Occupations for Little Fingers 

through the first slit and can then move up and down. No. 2 
is passed through a hole and is held. No. 3 moves, and No. 4 
is held, and so on across the warp. When the heddle is raised 
all the threads in the holes are drawn up and the other alter- 
nate ones are lowered. The shuttle is then passed between 
this division. When the heddle is lowered the threads in the 
holes go down and those in the slits all up together. The 
shuttle is then passed through this other division. This is 
a simple device for alternating the threads and is, of course, 
labor saving when there are many in the warp. 

To string up the box : Make the heddle of a piece of card- 
board according to the width of the cloth desired. If sixteen 
warp threads are used, there will be eight holes and eight 
slits in the heddle. Tie the warp cord to nail No. 1 on the 
lower row. Pass it through slit No. 1 of the heddle and 
around nail No. 1 on the upper row. Bring the cord back 
through hole No. 1 of the heddle and around nail No. 2 
on the lower row. Continue until the loom is strung up. 
Wind the woof yarn on a piece of cardboard. Hold the hed- 
dle in the left hand, raise it and pass the shuttle between the 
threads. Lower the heddle and pass the shuttle in return. On 
so small a loom the fingers can be used in place of a shuttle. 

The heddle also serves as a batten, which is used to push 
the woof threads together and so to make a more closely 
woven cloth or rug. 

Continue until the rug is woven. This method makes an 
interesting problem, and is easily executed when once the 
principle is understood. The rug may be removed by cut- 
ting the cords at the ends, as in the paper box, or removing 
them from around the nail heads in the wooden box. The 
ends may be tied into a fringe, or a fringe of wool or yarn made 
and put in (see Fig. 29). Plate VIII, No. 8, shows a rug 
made on the cigar-box loom. 

If it is desired to have a stripe woven in the rug, it may be 
introduced by carrying the original color woof along the 



Weaving' 75 

selvage, and working the color of the stripe around it in 
passing the woof. When it is necessary to work with the 
original color, it may be used, and the color of the stripe 
carried along the selvage until it is necessary to introduce 
another stripe. 

V* Another Loom 

Materials. — Two flat sticks, 9 x J inches. — Two flat sticks, 
7 x J inches. — One flat stick, 6x1 inches. — One stick, 
5 x J inches. — Germantown wool. — Nails. 

Make an oblong frame of the two 9-inch sticks and the 
two 7 -inch sticks of half -inch width. These may be cut from 
a cigar-box or pine sticks. Nail the frame at the corners. 
Hammer ten small nails across the top bar of the frame and 
ten across the lower, having them exactly opposite each 
other. Place them about one-half inch apart (see Plate IX, 
No. 3). Attach the warp yarn to the first nail on the lower 
row; wind it around the first nail on the upper row; pass it to 
nail No. 2 on the upper row, around it and down to nail No. 
2 on the lower row. Continue until the warp is arranged. 

The stick 7 inches long by J of an inch wide is to be used for 
the heddle. Cut a slight groove one-half inch from each' end 
of the stick. Tie a 
piece of cord in the 
groove at one end. 
Lay the stick on top 

of the warp threads; 

4.1, a ,- a / FlG - 53 - 

pass the cord tied to 

the stick around the first warp thread, and then around the 

stick. Skip the second thread and pass the cord around the 

third warp thread. Continue until every other warp thread 

has been attached to this heddle stick. Make each of these 

loops about one inch in length. This is for raising the alternate 

threads. The shuttle is made of the stick 5 x J inches (see 

Fig- 53)- Wind the wool for the woof around the shuttle. 




76 



Occupations for Little Finge?~s 



Another stick is necessary for obtaining the other division of 
the threads ; this is called a batten, and is to be made of the 
stick 6xi inches, and is flat and slightly rounded at the ends. 
The batten is used to push the woof threads together and to 
batten the rug so that it will be more firm in construction. 

Raise the heddle and pass the shuttle between the division 
of threads. Pick up the alternate threads with the batten, 
and again pass the shuttle across. Continue until the rug 
is woven. This is the principle of the Navajo Indian rug 
weaving. The real method used by the Indians is very much 
more complicated. The warp is made before it is attached 
to the loom, and the Indians have a method of introducing 
selvage cords, and of attaching the heddle rod, which is quite 
intricate and too difficult for children. The Third Annual 

Report of the Bu- 
reau of Ethnology, 
1882, gives a very 
definite description 
of the method of 
work pursued by 
the Indians. 

In the study of 
Indian life the chil- 
dren may make a 
simple loom, using 
the principles of 
the above, but changing the construction somewhat. 

Take four natural sticks, cross and tie them at the corners 
(see Plate IX, No. 4). The cord is wound back and forth 
around the upper and lower rods of the frame to form the 
warp. Simple weaving may be put in with the fingers, with- 
out any heddle, or a simple heddle and batten arrangement 
may be made, as in the above description. 

In making a pattern care must be taken to overlap the threads 
of the background and of the pattern introduced (see Fig. 54). 



1 

1 




1 


1 


1 




i 




1 












s^ 




6p§ 


~f 


ggggg 

1 " 


w 

1 f 


SsAaT 

1 


(S22 

j 



Fig. 54. 



PLATE IX 



77 




LOOMS 



i. Cigar box. 
2. Paper box. 



3. Primitive. 

4. Navajo. 



5. Roller. 

6. Woulma 



7. Roller. 



78 Occupations for Little Fingers 

VI. Loom for Continuous Weaving 

Materials. — Cigar-box. — 2 wooden rollers. — Nails. — Yarn. 

This loom will be found too difficult for very young children 
to construct, but it can be made by those of the sixth or 
seventh grade. The principle must first be understood and 
the children allowed to work out their own ideas. One roller 
is used for the warp threads and the other is the roller upon 
which the cloth is wound after being woven. The warp 
threads are first attached to the cloth roller, then passed 
through the heddle, and finally fastened to the warp roller 
and wound upon it. The threads may be cut any length 
desired for the continuous piece of cloth. The weaving is 
done in the same manner as in the preceding looms. As the 
cloth is woven it may be wound upon the cloth roller, and the 
warp unwound from the warp roller. The plate shows the 
small wire handles attached to the rollers for this purpose. 
Plate IX, No. 5, shows such a loom made from a cigar-box. 
The Zuni heddle is used (see Fig. 52) and a piece of card- 
board for shuttle. Plate IX, No. 7, also shows another 
method of construction for a simple frame and roller loom. 

VII* Manufactured Looms 

There are several good looms on the market adapted to 
school purposes. These may be secured at the kindergarten 
supply places, or directly from the inventors. Plate IX, 
No. 6, shows the Woolman loom, with its rollers, shuttle, 
heddle, etc. The uprights may be removed from the top 
of the box cover, and the whole packed neatly within, without 
disturbing the weaving in any way. 



Weaving 79 

VIIL Circular Weaving; 

Materials. — Circle of cardboard. — Raffia or rug yarn. 

Plate VIII, Nos. 9, 10, and 11, shows several examples of 
circular weaving which have not been removed from the 
cardboards on which they were made. 

For a small rug cut a circle of cardboard six inches in 
diameter, and one-quarter of an inch from the edge make 
a row of holes. It is necessary to have an uneven number. 
Place them one-quarter of an inch apart. In the centre 
of the cardboard cut a hole one-quarter of an inch in diameter. 

Wind the warp threads, beginning at the centre hole. Hold 
the warp in position, pass it over the upper side of the card, 
through a hole at the edge, around the back of the card and 
through the centre. Continue to wind back and forth, pass- 
ing through the outer row of holes in regular order and back 
again each time through the centre hole. 

Begin to weave at the centre on the upper side of the card 
and work toward the edge of the circle. Be careful not to 
draw the woof too tightly in going over and under the warp. 

When the weaving has been completed, cut the threads on 
the back, half-way between the edge and the centre of the 
cardboard. The ends at the outer edge are tied together to 
form a fringe, and those at the centre are fastened by running 
them into the weaving on the wrong side of the mat. 

Small pockets may be made by weaving on both sides of 
the cardboard and using raffia instead of wool. In making 
them it is impossible to pass the warp threads of raffia through 
the centre hole; instead, a brass ring is placed in the centre 
of each side, and the warp is passed from side to side through 
the brass rings at the centre and over the outside edge. It is 
not necessary to have a row of holes at the outer edge as in 
the circular mat. In winding the warp only two-thirds of 
the circle is utilized, and in the weaving the woof is turned 
at the outside thread of the segment of circle covered (see 



80 Occupations for Little Fingers 

Fig. 55). Both sides of the circle are woven in this way, and 
the cardboard broken for removal. A braid of raffia may 
be made and attached to the sides for a handle. 

Weaving may also be done, in a similar manner, over a 
square of cardboard. Plate VIII, No. 12, shows a bag in 

process of making. Arrange a 
row of pins across the top of 
the card, about one-quarter of an 
inch apart, allowing half of the 
pin to extend on each side of 
the card. The warp threads are 
wound lengthwise of the card, 
each time passing around the 
portion of the pin on the opposite 
side. There are thus two sets of 
warp threads and the bag is woven 
round and round the card. When the row of pins is reached, 
remove them, and a set of loops will hold the woof at the top 
and complete the finish of the bag. Remove the cardboard. 
A draw-string of another color may be introduced in the weav- 
ing about three-quarters of the way up. 




CHAPTER VIII 



BEAD WORK 

There is perhaps nothing that appeals to a child more than 
the bright-colored beads which can be obtained in such a 
variety of color and size. Primitive people use beads for 
decoration on many of their implements of peace and war. 
We can turn to our American Indians for inspiration, as to 
color, design, and the articles to be made. Their manner of 
working and their methods are simple, and easily carried out 
by the child. The simplest form is that worked on chamois 
or buckskin, where the beads are strung on thread and sewed 
down at intervals. 

L Moccasins 

Materials.— Chamois-skin.— Beads, Nos. 2-0, several colors. 
—Linen thread, No. 70.— Needles, No. 8.— Thimbles. 
Approximate cost ^> 

These moccasins can be made in any size desired, the 
shape being the same in 
all sizes (see Fig. 56). If 
the children are to make 
them to fit themselves, 
take a piece of paper about 
twelve inches 
square, fold it 
in half and 
crease. Open 
it and lay it on 
the floor. Have 
the child place 
the centre of Tongue. 




/ 1 \ — 

- \ ; / 



Fig. 56. 



81 



82 



Occupations for Little Fingers 



his foot along the line creased, with the heel one and one-half 
inches from the edge of the paper. Draw around the foot 
with a pencil. Put the paper on the desk, and from the curve 
of the instep around the toe allow one inch. From the instep 
draw a straight line to the outside of the square, both sides. 
From the heel draw a curved line to the edge of the paper 
about two inches up from the crease. Parallel with the top 
of the moccasin cut an inch slit where the line from the 
toe and the straight line meet. This forms the lap in 
front. The tongue is a straight strip with one end rounded 
to fit into the toe. To find the length for this, measure from 
the toe, one inch from the end of the foot, to the top of the 
shoe, and for width, across the top of the foot at the instep. 
This should be about two and one-half inches. You will 
now have a perfect pattern to work from. Cut out the paper, 
lay it on the chamois, and cut two pieces from each part of 
the pattern. The bead work is done on the tongue only. 
Decide on the pattern, which may cover the whole lower part 
of the tongue, or be placed in the centre of the rounded end. 
Thread the needle and bring it through to the upper side. 

If the pattern is to have a border, put that on first. Put 
as many beads as are necessary to make the width on the 

needle; put the needle through to 
the wrong side again, on a direct 
line from where it came out and 
far enough in advance to make the 
beads lie flat. Bring the needle 
again to the outside, making a 
short stitch on the wrong; thread 
on the same number of beads and 
put the needle in close to where it 
came out on the first row. Con- 
tinue working like this all around the toe. At the round end 
the lines of beads will be slightly crowded together on the 
inside and fanned out on the outside of the curve (see Fig. 57). 




Bead Work 83 

To fill the centre, start at the upper end of the border and 
work across to the other side. From one to one and one- 
half inches of beads may be placed on the needle at once and 
sewed to the chamois-skin in sections. A small back stitch 
is taken on the wrong side in order to make the break in the 
line of beads show less. After the bead work is finished, 
gather the round end of the largest piece and draw it up 
until it fits the round end of the tongue. Measure from 
the straight end of the tongue the length of the side of the 
moccasin and begin sewing from that point. The tongue 
is sewed in on the wrong side, using an overhanding stitch 
(see Fig. 31). The back of the moccasin is then sewed in 
the same manner. Cut a row of slits around the ankle and 
run in strips of chamois for ties. These moccasins can also 
be made for dolls or for babies. 

IL Bead Belt 

Materials. — Chamois-skin ij x 23 inches. — Beads Nos. 2-0, 
several colors. — Linen thread, No. 70. — Needle, No. 8. — 
Thimble. Approximate cost per child 03 

This Indian belt may be made for the children to wear. 
Cut a strip of chamois-skin one and one-half inches wide and 
long enough to go around the waist. Find the centre and 
measure out each way about two inches. This gives the space 
to be filled with beads. Make a design that will fit in that 
space, and sew the beads on in a manner similar to the moc- 
casins. The design may cover the entire width, or, if in the 
form of a diamond or other device, it may be placed in the 
centre without using a background of beads. This last 
method is simpler, and does not require so much time to 
accomplish. The ends of the belt may have narrow strips 
of chamois, sewed or tied in, to fasten the belt together. 

Indian dolls may have their clothing decorated with this 
same style of bead work, and it may also be applied to tepees 
and bags. 



84 



Occupations for Little Fingers 



III* Egyptian Chains 

Materials. — Raffia, 3 strands. — Beads E, 3 strings. — Ap- 
proximate cost per child 03 

These little chains are very attractive and make good work 
for children in the fourth or fifth grade. The original Egyp- 
tian chains were strung on fine strands of braided leather, 
but raffia makes a very good substitute 

Take one strand of raffia, plain or colored, and divide it in 
thirds, lengthwise. From the fine end begin stringing on 
the beads until they cover about eight inches on each strand. 
Care should be taken not to wet the 
raffia, as the stiff end will pass through 
the beads much more readily. Push ten 
beads to within one and one-half inches of 
the large end of the raffia, and leaving out 
one bead, thread that end through the 
remaining nine. Do this to each strand 
and fasten them together at the base of 
these beads to form a tassel. Begin 
braiding, holding the strands out at right 
angles. Braid for one-quarter of an inch 
and push up a bead on each outside 
strand. Hold them in place and con- 
tinue braiding, pushing up two beads 
every quarter of an inch (see Fig. 58). 
When the raffia requires piecing push the large end up 
through the beads that remain on the strand to be pieced, 
and lapping the ends, continue braiding; these ends are cut 
off afterward. When the chain is from one and one-half to 
two yards long, finish the end in the same manner as the 
start of the chain. These two tassels may be fastened to- 
gether afterward. 




Fig. 58. 



PLATE X 



85 




BEAD WORK 



i. Moccasin. 3. Doll. 

2. Belt. 4. Egyptian chain. 



5. Bead portiere. 7. Round bead chain. 

6. Bead chains. 8. Flat bead chain. 



9. Fobs. 

10. Daisy chain. 



86 Occupations for Little Fingers 

IV. Bead Curtain 

Materials. — Macrame cord, No. 16, 3 J yards. — Large glass 
beads. — Tapestry needle, No. 19. Approximate cost 
per child 05 

Cut the cord into twelve lengths and thread one end of a 
piece into the needle and in the other make a knot. String 
on one bead and hold in place with an overhand knot. About 
one inch from the knot place another knot, and string on 
another bead. Continue in this way until within three inches 
of the end, then form a loop to slip on to the curtain-pole. 
Make each cord in the same way. Patterns may be worked 
out by spacing the beads and knots at different intervals. Slip 
all the strings on the pole, which may be made of a dowel- 
stick or of large rattan. Tie-backs may be made of a smaller 
cord braided with beads, the same as in the Egyptian chain. 

V. Bead Chain, No. \ 

Materials. — Four or five strings of beads, E. — Linen 
thread, No. 70. — Needles, No. 8. Approximate cost per 
child 03 

This is simple work and can be done by young children. 
Thread two needles with linen thread, from one 
and one-half to two yards in each length. Tie 
the ends of the threads together, and begin 
stringing the beads on one needle. After you 
have fifteen or twenty beads on one thread drop 
that needle, and with the other string on three 
beads. Put that needle through the fourth 
bead on the other string, and again string on 
three beads (see Fig. 59). Continue in this 
manner until the chain is long enough. 

A variation may be made by stringing six 
beads on one string and three on the other, 

Fig. 59. and then putting the needle on the last string, 




Bead Work 



87 




Fig. 60. 



through the last three beads on the first 
string. Continue working until the chain 
is of sufficient length. The threads 
change place at each loop, the right-hand 
one becoming the left (see Fig. 60). Two 
colors may be introduced by using one 
color for the side strings and another for 
the bar across the chain. 



VL Bead Chain, No* 2 

Materials. — Corset lace, 1. — Four or Five 
strings of beads, No. 2-0. — Linen 
thread, No. 70. — Needle, No. 8 or No. 9. Approximate 
cost per child 04 

This chain is very pretty, and is simple work. It differs 
from the two described, being round instead of flat. Thread 
the needle with the linen thread and fasten it to one end of 
the lace and on it string ten beads; put the needle through 
the second bead and string on three more; put the needle 
through the fourth bead ahead of the last one it passed through. 
Continue in this manner until the chain is the desired length. 
If two colors are used, have the last three beads of the first 
row of contrasting color, and put on three each row around, 
beginning one bead ahead each time. This will make the 
stripe twist. To finish the chain, bring the two ends of the 
lace together and sew firmly, then work the beads over this 
end. A tassel of beads may be used for a finish, or the chains 
may be mounted by a jeweller. 



VIL Bead Chain, No. 3 

Materials. — Six strings of beads, No. 2-0. — Linen thread, No. 
70 and No. 100. — Milliner's needle, No. 10. — Thimble. — 
Slate frame or loom. Approximate cost per child. . .05 

Almost everyone has seen or made one of the woven bead 



88 



Occupations' for Little Fingers 



chains that have been worn so much lately. An endless 
variety of these chains may be made, but the underlying 
principles are the same in all. Cut an even number of 
strings of No. 70 linen thread, from one and one-half to two 
yards long — six or eight strings for a narrow chain, and from 
eighteen to twenty-two for a fob. Fasten these strings 
together and if a loom is used slip one into each notch or be- 
tween the nails; if a slate or caning frame, fasten them se- 
curely to one side and carry them directly across to the 
opposite side and tie them there. Fasten the end of No. 
100 thread, which has been threaded in the needle, with the 
others, which we will call the warp threads. Place the beads 
for the first row on the needle (one less bead than the number 
of warp threads), and hold the needle under 
the warp threads, a bead between each. Hold 
the beads in position with the first finger of 
the left hand and draw the needle through 
them; put it back through the beads in the 
opposite direction and on top of the warp 
threads. It is better to work from right to 
left first, and then from left to right. It is 
always best to have an uneven number of 
beads so as to give a centre for the pattern. 

An attractive method of starting a fob is 
with a piece of chamois-skin about six 
inches long and one inch at one end, slant- 
ing to one-quarter of an inch at the other 
(see Fig. 61). The warp threads for the fob 
are cut about four inches longer than twice 
the desired length of the finished fob, and are sewed into 
the chamois-skin at the wide end. A turn of about one- 
eighth of an inch is made at that end and each thread is 
brought up through this and taken back again, leaving the 
space for a bead between. To finish the fob, thread each 
warp thread in the needle and string on beads for fringe, 




Fig. 61. 



Bead Work 89 

leave out the end bead and bring the needle back through 
the others, and up into the weaving to fasten. 

Cross-stitch patterns may be used for these chains, or 
the children may design them themselves. 

VIIL Daisy Chains 

Materials. — Chalk-white beads, No. 2-0, 3 or 4 strings. Blue 

beads, No. 2-0, 3 or 4 strings.— Yellow beads, No. 2-0, 2 
or 3 strings.— Linen thread, No. 70.— Long eye needle, 
No. 9 or No. 10. Approximate cost per child 06 

In this very artistic chain the principle is different from 
the preceding ones, as all the work is done with one thread. 
If the following directions are carefully noted very little 
trouble will be found. When piecing the thread it is best 
to do so where the needle goes through the entire daisy. 
The new thread should be joined to the old with a weaver's 
knot (see Plate I, No. 9), and as close to the beads as possible. 

Thread the needle and wax the thread, but do not have 
it too long. Put on three white beads and one yellow, then 
put the needle through the first white 
bead ; put on four white beads, then pass 
the needle through all the beads of the 
daisy. Take up two blue, then one white 
and put the needle through the blue next 
to the white bead. Take up one blue bead 
and put the needle through the white bead 
of the daisy XX. Turn the chain and put 
on one blue, pass the needle through the 
blue, and put on one white, pass the needle 
through the white. Turn the chain and 
put on two white and one yellow, pass the needle through the 
white. Put on one blue, and pass the needle through the blue. 
Turn the chain and put on one blue, pass the needle through 
the blue, and put on one white, pass the needle through the 




90 Occupations for Little Fingers 

yellow. Turn the chain and put on three white and pass 
the needle through all the beads of the daisy (see Fig. 62). 
Then put on one blue, pass the needle through the blue, and 
turn the chain over to begin a new daisy. Put on one white, 
and pass the needle through the blue to start a new daisy. Put 
on one blue, and pass the needle through one white of the old 
daisy. Repeat from XX. 

It is well in putting away the chain to stop work at the be- 
ginning of a new daisy, as it is easier to pick out the direc- 
tions from that point. 



CHAPTER IX 

HOW TO FURNISH A DOLL'S HOUSE 

Is there anything that appeals to the heart of a child more 
than a doll's house ? If the furniture, rugs, curtains, pictures, 
and other decoration, as well as the house, can be made by 
the children, the pleasure they will derive will be even greater 
than in one furnished by someone else. All children love 
to play at doing the same as their elders, whether it is mother 
and house-keeping, or father at the store, on the farm, or at 
the office. In furnishing the house many things may be 
taught. Economy, hygienic furnishing, and decoration play 
a part in the scheme, that can be used to teach the children 
the useful lessons that will mean much to them in after life. 

L The House 

Materials. — i large box or 2 small ones. — A few wire nails. — 
Moulding. — Hammer and saw. 

Obtain a wooden box, about 36 x 18 inches, from a grocery 
or a dry-goods store, or, if a large one is not to be had, two 
small ones of even size. Get one of the older boys to fit a 
partition which will divide the house into two rooms. Cut a 
doorway in this partition, for we must have communication 
between the rooms. Cut one or two windows in each room, 
and, if the boys are very ambitious, let them fit them with 
glass; this will make the house more realistic. Purchase 
enough narrow moulding to go around the top of the house; 
this makes a very nice finish and does not add very much to 
the expense. Your house is now ready to paint or stain on 
the outside and to be papered on the inside. In choosing 

91 



92 Occupations for Little Fingers 

your box pick out one that is smoothly finished, as this will 
save trouble later. The stain or paint for the outside may 
be obtained at any paint store for about fifteen cents, and the 
children, especially the boys, will enjoy painting it. A soft 
green or brown will be found the best for this purpose. 

After the house is finished on the outside choose a neutral 
color for the wall decoration. An ingrain paper will do 
nicely, and the children can design and stencil a border for 
the top. When the floors are stained the house will be fin- 
ished and ready to be furnished. For the rugs, see the chapter 
on Weaving; for curtains, see the description of lace curtains 
and Bagdad portiere, also lined portiere, in the chapter on 
Upholstery. In the chapter on Coarse Sewing the cushions 
and table-covers have been described. In the chapter on 
Paper Folding a description of a paper screen is given; this 
will be found an attractive addition to the doll's house. 
This leaves the furniture and wall decoration to be considered 
in this chapter. 

IL Doll's Bed 

Materials. — Pasteboard box. — Colored cambric. — Dotted 
Swiss muslin. — Unbleached muslin. — Long cloth. — 
White flannel. — Cotton batting. — Colored wool and 
San silk. — Needles, No. 8. — Crewel needles, No. 3. 
— Thimbles. 

The foregoing list seems rather formidable, but so 
little of each thing is needed that the expense is very 
small. Choose a box that will be in good proportion 
to the room. This is to be covered by pasting the 

colored cambric on the 
sides and cover. Stand 
the cover up at one end 
of the box and sew it 
firmly (see Fig. 63). 
Fig. 63. This forms the bed- 




PLATE XI 



93 




i. Couch-cover. 

2. Small rug. 

3. Bed. 



FURNITURE FOR DOLL'S HOUSE 



4. Toilet-table. 

5. Couch. 

6. Arm-chair. 



7. Table. 

8. Table. 

9. Willow 



l-chair. 



Chair. 

Passe-partout picture. 



94 Occupations for Little Fingers 

stead. Make a ruffle of the dotted muslin, the hem of which 
may be run with the mercerized cotton to form a decoration, 
and sew it around the box at the top. Cut a piece of muslin 
about four inches wide, and long enough to go over the cover 
and drop to the bottom of the box. This is to be hemmed all 
around, using the same width hem and decoration as on the 
ruffle. This piece will form the curtains, and is to be fastened 
in plaits at the top of the cover and drawn down and fastened 
at the sides where box and cover join. The bed is now ready 
for the mattress, pillow, and bedding. Measure the box and 
cut two pieces of unbleached muslin the exact size. Seam 
these together, leaving an opening at one side, turn, and fill 
with cotton; sew up the opening. Make the pillow in the 
same manner. The sheets are to be made of the long cloth, 
or any other soft-finished cotton. Cut them about two inches 
larger than the box, to allow for hems and tucking in at the 
sides. Put narrow hems on each side and one end, and a 
one-half inch hem at the other. The blankets are made of 
soft white flannel cut the same size as the finished sheet and 
worked around the edge with an even or uneven blanket- 
stitch (see Fig. 23), using the colored wool or Poseidon. The 
pillow-case is cut twice the width of the pillow, with the 
seams allowed, and about one and one-half inches longer. 
Turn a seam on each side of the muslin and overhand it 
together, explaining to the child that pillow-cases are usually 
made of material just the right width, and therefore the sel- 
vages are overhanded together. Make a narrow seam at 
the top, using two runs and a back stitch, and overcast it; 
a half-inch hem is put in the other end. A little white spread 
may be made by using a piece of an old towel, and either 
hemming it or tying in a fringe as described under Table- 
Cover (Chapter IV). The doll's initials might be worked 
in with cross-stitch, using red or blue marking cotton. 

This little bed makes very good cooperative work, as sev- 
eral children can be working on it at the same time. 



How to Furnish a DolVs House 



95 



IE. Toilet-Table 

Materials. — Pasteboard box, 4x5 inches. — Colored cambric. 
— Dotted Swiss muslin. — Colored San silk. — White cot- 
ton, No. 80. — Needle, No. 8, and crewel needle, No. 4. 
Approximate cost per child 02 

Take the cover from the box and cover the outside of it 
with the colored cambric, pasting it on and allowing it to 
run over the edge to the inside of the cover. Fasten the cover 
to the box, which has been turned on end (see Fig. 64). 
Cover the top of the table with a piece of dotted Swiss, sewing 
it to the lower edge of the cover. Make a ruffle deep enough 
to fall from the upper edge to the floor, and finish it with a 
hem, decorated to 
match the valance on 
the bed. The muslin 
ruffle should have about 
once and a half of ful- 
ness. A straight piece 
of the colored cambric, 
large enough to go 
across the front and 
ends of the top, and 
the depth of the ruffle, 
is then cut; this can be 
hemmed at the bottom 
or cut in small points. Gather the ruffle with a narrow 
heading at the top, turn in the cambric, and fasten them to- 
gether. This is then sewed to the upper edge of the cover, 
and the table is finished. A little pin-cushion of cambric 
covered with muslin, and having a ruffle of lace around it, 
may be added to the top. The size of the box may vary 
with the size of the house. Always try to keep the right 
proportions between the house and its furnishings. 




Fig. 64. 



96 Occupations for Little Fingers 



IV* Box Couch, for Dolls' Dresses 

Materials. — Pasteboard box, 3x7 inches. — Cretonne or 
silkoline. — Colored cambric. — White cotton, No. 80. — 
Needles, No. 8. — Cotton batting. — Thimbles. Approxi- 
mate cost 04 

Choose rather a heavy box and take the sides and ends 
off the cover. Lay several thicknesses of the batting on top 
and cover it with the cretonne, both sides. For this cut the 
piece a little more than twice the width and enough longer 
to turn in at the ends. Turn the material from the top 
over to the under side of the cover. Turn in the other edges 
and overhand together at the ends and one side, the other 
side having no seam. Line the inside of the box with cam- 
bric, pasting it in place. Let this run over the upper edge 
to the outside, and it will give something to which the valance 
may be fastened. Cut a piece of cretonne the depth of the 
box, allowing a one-half inch hem and three times the meas- 
ure of the entire top of the box. After this is hemmed, plait 
it in small box-plaits and fasten it to the top of the box. 
The lid which was covered first is now tacked on at the back 
of the box, so that it will open; this can be done by making 
several button-holed loops. Make some small sofa-cushions 
of the cretonne to place on the couch. 

V* Arm-Chair 

Materials. — Cardboard. — Cretonne. — Cotton batting. — 
White thread, No. 80.— Needles, No. 8.— Thimbles. 

Cut two pieces of cardboard (see Fig. 65 a and b) and two 
pieces of heavy paper to match. Cut four pieces of cretonne 
the same shape as the cardboard and one-quarter of an inch 
larger all around. Lay several thicknesses of cotton over 
the cardboard, and lay one set of the cretonne pieces on these 
and fasten them by using long stitches at the back (see Pin 



How to Furnish a Doll's House 



97 



Ball, Chapter IV). Fasten the other pieces of cretonne to the 
paper in like manner. The back and scat of the chair having 
the cotton padding may be tufted before putting the pieces 
together. Lay the two sets with the wrong sides together 
and with an overhand stitch sew around both pieces. Cut 
a little strip of the cretonne three inches deep and nine 




Fig. 65. 

inches long, hem it at the bottom and sides, box-plait it, 
and sew it to the front of the piece for the seat. Tack the 
back of the seat to the middle back of the chair with a few 
strong stitches. Bring the arms around, and fasten them 
to the front of the seat. The shape of this chair may be varied 
by changing the dimensions of the diagram. 



VL Wicker Tabic 

Materials. — No. 3 rattan, 6 pieces, 22 inches. — No. 3 rattan, 
1 piece, 12 inches. — No. 2 rattan, 1 weaver. — A few 
strands of raffia. Approximate cost 03 

Any child who has woven a mat with rattan can make a 
table for the house, as the principle is the same. Cross the 



98 



Occupations for Little Fingers 



six pieces of No. 3 rattan in the centre, three and three, and 
lay the twelve-inch piece between one set. Take the weaver 
of No. 2, which has been well soaked to make it pliable, and 
hold it beneath the under set of spokes and then bring it 
over the upper set. Pass it under the next set and over the 
next, keeping it as close to the crossing as possible. Do this 
twice around, and then begin to separate the spokes and work 
them singly (see Fig. 66). If this is done carefully the weav- 
ing will come out in the correct way, i.e., the weaver will pass 
over the spoke it went under before, and under the spoke it 
went over before. Continue in this manner until the mat is 

about three and one-half inches in 
diameter. Make a border in the 
following manner : Bring spoke No. 
1 over the next spoke to the right 
and push it through the weaving on 
the under side of the mat for about 
three or four rows. Do the same 
thing with spoke No. 2, and con- 
tinue it around the entire mat. The 
last spoke will go through the loop 
formed by the first one. When all 
the spokes are through to the wrong 
side, pull them taut; this will tighten the border and make 
it more firm. These spokes are to form the legs of the table. 
Decide whether you are to have three or four legs and group 
the spokes accordingly. The extra one can be cut away or 
bound in with one of the groups. Even the legs before you 
begin to finish them. Take a weaver of rattan, begin at the 
top close to the mat and wind over the entire length of the 
group, leaving a small space between each winding. At the 
lower end take a half hitch (see Fig. 5) and wind back to 
the top; filling in the spaces, fasten it off by running the 
rattan into the weaving. Do this to each leg or group. If 
the table has four legs, a smaller mat may be made, and 




Fig. 66. 



How to Furnish a Doll's House 99 

fastened in, lower down, to form a shelf. If it has three legs, 
it is well to bind them together, part of the way down, as that 
will make the table more firm. 

Stools, and stands for flowers, may be made in the same 
manner, by cutting the spokes a few inches shorter, and 
making the mat smaller in diameter. It is well in these to 
bind a ring of rattan inside of the legs about half-way down; 
this will help to strengthen them. Chairs may also be made 
by cutting one of the spokes about seven inches longer than 
the others and, instead of binding it in with the rest to form 
the legs, bring the two long ends to the right side of the mat 
and use them for the back of the chair. Insert three extra 
spokes of No. 3 rattan between these, and with a weaver 
No. 2, weave back and forth, until within one and one-half 
inches of the top of the side spokes. Push the end of the 
weaver down beside a spoke to hold it, bend the two outside 
spokes over so that they cross at the centre, and push the ends 
down at the outside. The three centre spokes are to be cut 
off even with the weaving. 

Braided raffia makes a pretty weaver and is a little easier 
for children to use; a fine three-strand braid is the best for 
this purpose. 

VIL Arm-Chair 

Materials. — No. 5 rattan, 1 piece, 8 inches. — No. 5 rattan, 
2 pieces, 5 inches. — No. 1 rattan, 6 pieces, 9 inches. — No. 
1 rattan, 28 pieces, graduated, 2 of each from 10 to 18 
inches. — No. 1 rattan, 3 weavers. Approximate cost. .05 

This little chair is more difficult to make than the pre- 
ceding one, and therefore will be better work for older chil- 
dren, especially boys. 

Bend the eight-inch piece of No. 5 rattan to form a bow, 
and tie the ends together with a piece of raffia (see Fig. 67 a). 
Tie the six nine-inch pieces to the curve or back of the bow 
in the following manner : Bring one end over the piece of No, 



100 



Occupations for Little Fingers 



5 rattan, then around it and over itself; hold the short end 
in place and fasten on the next one, which will go over the 
first end and hold it in position (see Fig. 67 b). Continue 
until you have tied on five in this manner. In tying on the 
sixth one the short end is brought over in the opposite way 
and the end worked into the knots formed by the others. 
Take a weaver of No. 1 rattan, double it about ten inches 
from one end, put the loop thus formed around one outside 
spoke, and work across once with paired weaving (see Fig. 
14). After this, use plain weaving until the seat is finished, 
i.e., until the ends of the No. 5 rattan are reached. Bend 
down the ends of the long spokes, and put in the twenty-eight 





Fig. 67. 

pieces of No. 1 rattan. These are to graduate from ten 
inches to eighteen inches, and are to form the back and arms 
of the chair; they must be put in with that idea in view. 
Begin with the shortest, and gradually increase the height 
until the middle of the back is reached, and then decrease 
toward the front. These extra spokes are pushed down 
between the weaving close to the piece which forms the edge 
of the seat, and are spaced alternately first one weaver apart, 
then two weavers. They are pulled through even with the 
spokes which form the front of the chair. Insert the two 
five-inch pieces of No. 5 rattan at each side of the front. 
Take a weaver of No. 1 rattan, double it in the centre and 
slip it over one of these spokes. Put four rows of paired 



How to Furnish a Doll's House 



101 



weaving, enclosing two spokes at a time, except across the 

front where the spokes are worked separately; fasten off the 

weavers by working them into the weaving. Insert an extra 

spoke at the side of each of the front ones, pushing it well up 

into the weaving. One-half inch below the last row put in 

two more rows of 

pairing. Cross the 

spokes (see Fig. 68) 

and weave two 

more rows to form 

the base of the 

chair. Finish the // ))(( W W \[f 

base with the fol- Ut aQ 

r IG. Do. 

lowing border: 

Take two spokes together and put them over the next group 
to the right and then inside of the base; do this all around, 
bringing the last set through the loop formed by the first set. 
After the chair is dry, cut these spokes off to within one-half 
inch of the border. For the arms and back, cross the 
spokes in the same way as for the base; double a weaver of 

No. i rattan, slip it over 
one of the uprights at the 
front of the chair, and put 
two rows of pairing about 





Fig. 69. 



one inch from the seat. 
When the opposite up- 
right is reached turn the 
weavers, and weave back, 
gradually separating 
them from the first row 
to form the high back (see Fig. 69). Before coming back 
with the third row cross the spokes again and separate the 
rows as before, the fourth row is pressed down close to the 
third. The same set of weavers is used all through the 
upper part of the chair, as they turn and come back each time. 



102 



Occupations for Little Fingers 



The top is to be finished with the following border: Take 
each group and put it back of the next group to the right and 
out; do this all around the top. At the end bring the last 
pair all the way around, and place it under the next group 
to the right and up. Continue similarly across the border. 
When the rattan is dry cut the ends to within one-half inch 
of the weaving. 

VIIL The Pictures 

Materials. — Perry pictures. — Glass. — Cardboard. — Black 
or white paper for binding. 

The Perry pictures, which sell for half a cent apiece, make 
very attractive decoration on the walls of the doll's house. 
They can be framed in the following manner: 

Have a piece of glass cut the exact size of the picture, and 
cut a piece of cardboard the same size. The strips to bind 
the edges should be about one-half inch wide. The passe- 
partout binding that comes prepared for mounting is about 
one inch wide ; this can be cut in half, 
and is easier to use than that which is 
cut from a sheet of paper. Cut two 
strips the exact length of the longest 
way of the picture. Have the glass, 
picture, and cardboard fitted care- 
fully together and lay them glass 
upward on the table or desk. Put 
the paste on one strip and lay it on 
the glass, one-eighth of an inch on the 
edge of the glass and the rest of the 
paper extending over the edge. Press 
it down carefully, then raise the glass, 
picture, and cardboard, and put the 
paper down on the wrong side, pressing it over the edge 
as snugly as possible. Take a cloth and rub it quickly 
but lightly, the whole length, for several times. This gives 



Fig. 70. 



How to Furnish a DoWs House 103 

a good finish to the edge. Do the opposite side of the 
picture in the same manner. This will hold the materials 
together firmly. Next cut two pieces which will exactly fit 
the short sides. Before putting on the paste lay them on the 
glass so that they match the binding on the other sides, and 
mark the corners to form mitres. Cut off this small point, 
and one a little larger from the other side of the strip (see Fig. 
70). Paste these strips on in the same manner as the first 
two. The corners are the most particular part of the work, 
but if care is taken in cutting the strips to have them the 
exact length of the glass, very little trouble will be found. Al- 
ways paste the strips of paper on the two long sides first. 



CHAPTER X 

SIMPLE UPHOLSTERY FOR HOME USE 

Workers in settlement schools have for some years been 
teaching the children to become home-makers. Simple work 
in upholstery, when presented in an interesting way, offers 
unusual facilities in this direction, and certainly develops an 
amount of interest in home things which cannot fail to make 
the child more helpful and useful later on in life. The work 
may be learned in a very simple way, in relation to furnish- 
ings for a doll's house. Simplicity in furnishings, cleanliness 
in relation to choice and arrangement of materials, adapta- 
tion of things to use, planning with relation to economy of 
time and energy in their cleaning, may be incidentally taught 
in connection with the upholstery work. 

L Lace Curtains 

Materials. — Cream-white Brussels net. — Unbleached mer- 
cerized cotton. — Piece of rattan for pole. Approximate 
cost per child 06 

Measure the windows of the house for the length and width 
of the curtains. Turn a half-inch hem along the length on 
one side, and a quarter-inch on the other. Use the mercerized 
cotton double, and catch the hems down with the running or a 
fancy stitch. Turn a one-inch hem at the bottom, and finish 
in like manner. The top may be finished with a frill, in which 
case turn over one inch, turn in one-quarter of an inch, and 
fasten with a running-stitch done with No. 60 cotton. Put an- 

104 



PLATE XII 



105 




i. Lace curtains. 
2. Bagdad. 



UPHOLSTERY 

3. Lined portiere. 

4. Chair-cover. 



5. Mattress. 

6. Seat-cushion. 



106 Occupations for Little Fingers 

other row of stitches one-quarter of an inch from the last, to 
form a casing for the pole. Run the curtains on the pole, and 
make the tie-backs of cord and tassels. If no frill is desired, 
a casing that will admit the pole easily is made at the top. 
Care must be taken to have the curtains made in pairs; the 
cost will depend on the size. 



II. Bagdad Curtain 

Materials. — Java canvas, 2\ x 14 inches, 5 or 7 colors. — 2 
skeins Poseidon cotton. — Chenille needles, No. 2. — 
Thimbles. Approximate cost per child 11 

This article makes excellent cooperative work, as five or 
seven children can work in a group, each making a stripe for 
the curtain, which can be sewed together with an overhanding 
stitch by the teacher. 

Turn over the long edges of each strip one-quarter of an 
inch, baste, and fasten it down with an overcasting stitch 
(Fig. 32) done in Poseidon cotton. Work the length of the 
strip, then turn and come back, crossing the stitches; this 
forms a border on each side. The decorations through the 
centre should be left as far as possible to the children, as they 
will surely make some primitive designs. These designs may 
be worked with simple stitches: running, back-stitching, and 
the cross-stitch adapt themselves nicely to this style of 
decoration. 

Care should be taken in choosing the colors of the Java 
canvas to be placed together, and also in the arrange- 
ment of colors for decoration; a little black may be used 
effectively. 

In joining the stripes together to form the curtain, arrange 
them so that the colors harmonize. 

When finished, this may be used as a couch-cover or a door- 
curtain in the doll's house. 



Simple Upholstery for Home Use 107 

III. Lined Portiere 

Materials. — Burlap or denim, 15 x 20 inches. — Single-faced 
Canton flannel, 13 x 18 inches. — Sateen, 15 x 20 inches. — 
Heavy mercerized cotton. — Black San silk. — 6 small 
brass rings. — No. 60 white cotton. — No. 8 needles. — No. 
6 crewel needles. Approximate cost per child 10 

The measures given above make a curtain of good propor- 
tions ; but if it is to be used in a certain place, let the children 
take their own measurements. 

The decoration can be of denim applied and couched on 
(see Bag, Chapter III), or the design may be simply couched on 
the material, using the heavy mercerized cotton and San silk. 
In making the design for the curtain there are several things to 




Fig. 71. 



be considered, such as appropriateness, space, size, and use; 
combination of color is very important, and harmony with the 
surroundings. 

After the decoration has been placed on the curtain, put 
it face down on the desk or table, and lay the piece of Canton 
flannel on top, leaving a one-inch margin all around. Turn 
over the edge of the outside material, pin and sew down to the 
interlining with a coarse slanting stitch. The corners should 
be mitred (Fig. 71). Lay the sateen over the interlining, turn 
in the edges, leaving a half-inch margin; pin, baste, and 



108 Occupations for Little Fingers 

hem down. Finish at the top by laying six plaits, and sew on 
the brass rings so that the top of the ring touches the top of 
the curtain. Rods to hang them on can be made of dowel- 
sticks cut the length of the door-casing and stained to match 
the wood of the house. Use brass screw-eyes for brackets ; a 
brass-headed nail will make a nice finish for the ends of the 
rods. 

IV. Slip-covers 

Materials. — 9 inches of narrow striped furniture-linen. — 1 
piece of one-half inch tape. — No. 80 cotton. — No. 8 
needles. — Thimbles. Approximate cost per child . . .10 

Covers for small chairs may be made in the same manner 
as large-sized ones. Measure the depth and width of the chair- 
seat at the front and back, and cut a piece of paper a little 
larger. Measure the back, and if the chair has arms measure 
those also, and cut a pattern from paper. There must be two 
pieces for the back and each arm — one the exact size and 
width for the inside, and the other enough longer to fall below 
the seat nearly to the floor, for the outside. The same amount 
must be added to the front of the seat, and can either be cut 
on or joined with a seam. This will give the approximate 
size and shape of the cover. To get an exact fit for the 
chair, cut out the pieces of linen, using the pattern (care 
should be exercised here to have children cut economically). 
Baste the short back- and arm-pieces to the back and sides 
of the seat, and the front piece, if that has been cut separately. 
Put on the chair, and pin the long pieces for the back and arms 
to the other pieces, and fit around any irregularities in the 
chair. Cut the back up through the centre, and if there is 
width enough lap it a little at the top. Finish the cover all 
around with a binding of narrow tape, and sew three sets of 
tapes on the opening at the back, in order to tie it together. 
Where the pieces are joined to the seat, the seams are on the 
wrong side of the material and should be back-stitched; all 



Simple Upholstery for Home Use 109 

the other seams are on the right side and are covered by the 
tape. If this article is made by older children the tape may 
be sewed on the machine; this makes an excellent lesson in 
stitching. 

V, Mattress for Doll's Bed 

Materials. — Art-ticking or cretonne. — i piece of ^-inch tape. — 
Fine cord for tufting. — Heavy cable-cord for tufts. — Cot- 
ton or hair. — Long, slim needle. — Thimbles. Approx- 
imate cost per child 12 

Take the measure of the bedstead, and cut two pieces of 
cretonne the exact size. Cut a strip one inch wide and twice 
the length of the first piece, plus twice the width. This forms 
what is called the box of the mattress, and is to be basted 
around one of the first pieces cut, with the seam on the right 
side. Join the strip on one corner with the seam on the in- 
side. Baste on the second piece, leaving an opening of about 
three inches, where the stuffing is to be put in. Bind the 
seams with tape ; stitch it on the machine or run it on by hand. 

The mattress may be filled wfth hair, cotton, or excelsior; 
it should be stuffed as full as possible, and as evenly, espe- 
cially at the corners. Join the opening and bind it. Before 
the tufts are put in, divide the mattress and space the marks 
for the tufts evenly; these may be put in in diamonds or 
squares. Cut the cable-cord into inch lengths; it will take 
about two pieces for each tuft. Thread a long piece of string 
into the needle, and put it through at the first mark for a tuft ; 
bring it back again to the place where it went in, but leave a 
short stitch on the opposite side to keep the string from pulling 
through. Tie the ends once, pull as snug as possible, lay in a 
tuft, and tie with the square knot (see Chapter II). Continue 
until all the tufts have been laid in; for a mattress 9 x 7 in- 
ches, twenty tufts will be enough. 

The sides are held in place in the following manner: Thread 
a needle with a long string, and start it at the corner tuft. 



110 Occupations for Little Fingers 

Put the needle in on the slant, bringing it out in the box (or 
side) half-way to the next tuft; put it in again, leaving a short 
stitch, and come out at the next tuft. This is done all around 
the mattress. A double row of these stitches may be put in, 
one row on each side; this is not necessary, however, where 
they are small. Upholsterers use a double-pointed needle, 
but these would be rather difficult for children to handle. 
These mattresses make excellent work for older boys. 



VI. Cushion for Chair or Seat 

Materials. — Unbleached muslin. — Denim. — Excelsior or 
cotton batting. — Buttons for tufting. — Long, slim needle. 
— No. 50 white cotton. — Silk to match denim. Approx- 
imate cost per child 05 

This little cushion may be used for several purposes, such as 
window-seats, chair-cushions, and cosey-corners. The meas- 
ures are taken the same as for the mattress, and the pad made 
in like manner, using unbleached muslin in place of ticking, 
and sewing the seams on tfte inside instead of the outside. 
Use excelsior or cotton for filling, and tuft, using linen thread 
in place of string. Tie the ends together without using the 
tuft of cable-cord, as this is done simply to indicate the position 
of the buttons, which are put on after the outer covering is in 
place. Do not put the tufts as close together as in the mat- 
tress. After the pad is finished, take the measures for the 
outside. These consist of twice the width, the length, and 
twice the height of the box. Allow one inch on all measures 
for the tuck which is to be taken all around the edge of the 
cushion. Twice the height of the box must also be added to 
the length. Begin at the short side, and take up a one-quarter 
inch fold, baste, leaving a piece for the box, and tuck at each 
end (Fig. 72). From the basting, measure out the width of 
the cushion, allow one-quarter of an inch tuck and baste; 
then measure out the width of the box, again allow a tuck and 



Simple Upholstery for Home Use 111 

baste ; then the width of the cushion, and again allow a tuck 
and baste. This gives the covering for the two sides, and the 
boxes at the side. To fit the cushion to the pad exactly, 
measure on the long side the height of the box, allow a tuck 
and baste only between the tucks formed by the top of 
the cushion. From 
that basting measure 
the length of the cush- 
ion; allow a tuck at 
the other end and 
baste. These tucks 
should be stitched or 
run after they are 
basted ; the corners 
should be cut out, and 
the edges turned in 
and stitched together. 
Where the two end- 
pieces meet they can 
be slip-stitched. Also use the same finish at the side. The 
buttons are put in at the last. Thread a long, slim needle 
with a fine string or linen thread, put it through the cushion 
from the under side where the tufts have been made; put 
the needle through the cloth shank of the button and down 
through the pad again, and tie the ends with a square or hard 
knot (see Hard Knot, Chapter II). 





r 












1 1 
1 i 
1 

t f 
















1 1 
1 I 
t ) 








• » m m m m » » ( 
4 | 
1 | 
1 « 
1 f 

I J 
1 * *•_•.•. «.' 








! • 
1 < 
1 » 





Fig. 72. 



VIL Cover for Pillows 

Materials. — Holland linen. — Tape or buttons. — White cotton, 
No. 8o.— Needles, No. 8.— Thimble. 

These covers may be made in any size desired. They are 
to cover sofa-pillows, in order to keep them clean in summer, 
or when the room is being swept. Take a piece of linen the 
width of the pillow and twice its length; allow one-half inch 



112 Occupations for Little Fingers 

on the width for seams, and about five inches on the length 
for hems and lap (these measures are given for full-size pil- 
lows). Fold an inch hem at both ends of the strip, and stitch 
or hem by hand. Lay the strip together wrong side out, let- 
ting one end extend three inches beyond the other, and sew 
together with one-quarter inch seams. Put a narrow hem cor- 
responding to the width of the seam on the three-inch lap for 
a finish. Turn the case right side out and sew on three sets 
of tapes to tie, or make three or four button-holes in the lap 
and place buttons on the case. 



CHAPTER XI 

CROCHETING AND KNITTING 

When our grandmothers were young all little girls were 
taught to knit and crochet, for all the family stockings and mit- 
tens had to be made at home. It was not possible to go to the 
stores and buy them, as one can at present. Little children 
in foreign countries are still taught to knit, and it is quite a 
common sight in Holland to see them playing in the streets 
with their knitting in their hands. 

In the following chapter it is impossible to mention all the 
many articles that can be made with simple knitting and cro- 
cheting, so only a few suggestions are given, which will prove 
interesting to the children. Any directions for large-sized 
articles may be used for dolls by making them just half size. 

L Doll's Tam-o'-Shanter 

Materials. — Columbia yarn, J hank. — Bone crochet-hook, 
No. 4. — Approximate cost per child 02 

If the children have made the chain-stitch in the cord-work, 
it will be very easy to show them the connection between it and 
crocheting. The stitch is the same, but a needle or hook is 
used in drawing the loop through, in place of the fingers. Set 
up a chain of five stitches and join in a circle by drawing the 
last loop through the first one made. Then begin widening 
by putting two stitches in every stitch for two rows around. 
On the third row widen every other stitch. After that widen 
only occasionally in order to keep it flat and round. It may 
be worked in points by increasing the number of plain stitches 

113 




114 Occupations for Little Fingers 

between the widenings, by one extra stitch each row. The 
needle may be put through one side of the stitch only or both, 
the latter will make it a little firmer. When the Tarn is large 
enough, make two rows of plain crocheting without widening, 
then begin to narrow. This is done by placing the needle 
through two loops instead of one, and pulling the new loop 
through both at once. Narrow every third stitch until the 
head size is the right proportion for the top, then crochet three 

or four rows plain. Finish by 
pulling the finishing end through 
the last loop, and working it into 
the crocheting. A little ball may 
be made for the top in the follow- 
ing manner: Cut two circles of 
cardboard about one inch in 
diameter. Make a hole in the 
centre with the scissors and sew the wool from the centre 
around the outside of the cardboard (see Fig. 73). Fill as 
full as possible, then cut the wool around the outside edge, 
separate the cardboards, and tie a piece of wool around the 
centre. Tear out the cardboard and trim the ball into shape. 
Sew it to the top of the Tarn with the end of wool which was 
used to tie it at the centre. These Tarns may be made to fit 
the children by following the same directions and working 
them out to the proper size. 



IL Doll's Slipper 

Materials. — Columbia yarn, \ hank. — Lining to match wool. 
— Eider-down flannel, white. — Cardboard. — Needle, 
No. 8. — White cotton, No. 70. — Thimble. Approximate 
cost per child 06 

These little slippers will teach a slightly different method 
of work from the Tarn just described, as the work is done from 
side to side instead of around in a circle. 



PLATE XIII 



115 




CROCHETING AND KNITTING 



i. Tam-o'-Shanter. 

2. Slippers. 



Under vest. 
Baby sack. 



5. Scissors protector. 

6. Wash cloth. 



Doll's hood. 
Wristlets. 



Afghan. 
Sweater. 



116 



Occupations for Little Fingers 




Fig. 74. 



Set up a chain of six stitches, leave out the last stitch made, 
and crochet into the next two, then widen in the next and then 
make two more plain stitches. Take an extra stitch at the 

end of each row. 
Turn the work 
and crochet back, 
widening in the 
centre stitch each 
time. In order to 
form the rib, take 
up the side of the 
stitch away from 
you each row. 
Make five ribs or 
ten rows of cro- 
cheting; this forms 
the vamp of the 
slipper. On the eleventh row, crochet only eight stitches, 
and rib back and forth for thirteen ribs, or until the slipper is 
the size desired. Join this finished end to the opposite side of 
the vamp. With a double crochet, i.e., throw- 
ing the thread around the needle once, pulling 
it through one loop, and then through two (see 
Fig. 74), work around the upper edge of the 
slipper, catching it into each rib; put a single 
stitch between each double one. This forms 
the beading for a ribbon or cord and tassel. 

For the border put four double crochet 
stitches in each space and catch them down 
with a single stitch. 

In order to cut the sole, shape the crocheted 
slipper in the form of a foot, lay it on the card- 
board, and draw around the outside (see Fig. 75). Cut it 
out on this line; cut the eider-down the same size, and the 
lining one-quarter of an inch larger all around. Put a row 




Crocheting and Knitting 117 

of gathering around the lining, slip in the cardboard and sew 
in the same way as the pin-ball (Chapter IV). Paste the eider- 
down flannel on it and sew the slipper to the sole from the 
wrong side. Turn it, and finish at the top with a ribbon 
bow and elastic, or with cord and balls. 

If these are to be made for the children to wear, set up more 
stitches in starting, and increase the number of rows in the 
vamp also the number of stitches at the side and the number 
of rows. 

Lamb's-wool soles can be purchased for about 15 cents. 

Ill* Doll's Undervest 

Materials. — Saxony, threefold, J hank. — Bone crochet-hook, 
No. 2. — White baby-ribbon, \ yard. — Approximate cost 
per child 06 

This little undervest is very attractive when finished, and 
will provide good work for the children in teaching them 
to work from printed or written directions, which can be 
dictated or written on the board. If the directions given 
below are followed carefully, the work will be found quite 
easy. 

Set up eighty-six stitches. Make six rows of single cro- 
chet, taking up the back of the stitch and working lengthwise 
of the vest. Work one side first, making thirty-eight stitches 
of single crochet. Make nineteen rows and fasten off. Leave 
ten stitches on the long band for the neck and crochet thirty- 
eight stitches. Crochet nineteen rows; at the end of the 
nineteenth row make a chain of ten stitches for the neck. 
Join it to the other side and make six rows to match the other 
shoulder. Crochet the sides together, leaving one and one- 
half inches for the armhole. 

To finish the sleeve: Make one double crochet into the 
second stitch, and one double crochet into the first stitch, all 
around the opening. Then finish all around the sleeve by 



118 Occupations for Little Fingers 

making one single crochet, two chain, two double crochet in 
the same stitch. 

Neck : One double crochet, one chain-stitch over every rib, 
and then finish like the sleeve. 

IV* Cover for Scissors-Protector 

Materials. — Florence knitting-silk. — Steel crochet-hook. — 
Small cork. Approximate cost per child 01 

Set up a chain of three stitches, join it same as the Tam-o'- 
Shanter. Crochet several rows, widening to keep it flat, and 
taking it through both sides of the stitch at once. Make this 
piece large enough to cover the small end of the cork; then 
work around without widening until it is deep enough for 
the side. Finish it off by drawing the last stitch through, 
leaving an end of silk long enough to run through the last 
row of crocheting. This is to draw the case up after placing 
it over the cork. Make a little tassel of silk and sew it on 
where the work was started. Slip the case over the cork, 
draw up the silk and fasten off with a few stitches ; work the 
end into the crocheting. 

V. Baby-Doll's Sack 

Materials. — White Saxony, \ hank. — Colored Saxony, \ hank. 
— Bone crochet-hook, No. 2. Approximate cost per 
child 06 

The yoke of this little sack is to be made with the color, 
and the lower part with the white. 

Make a chain of thirty-three stitches. Three rows plain, 
single crochet, taking up back of stitch to form rib. In the 
fourth row widen on eighth and tenth stitches, and have thir- 
teen stitches between, on back of yoke. Also widen on the 
eighth and tenth stitches from the opposite front. 

Widen every row, having first two stitches between the 
widenings, then four, six, eight, ten, twelve. 



Crocheting and Knitting 119 

Always keep thirteen stitches between the widenings on the 
back, and the first widenings on the eighth and tenth stitches 
from the fronts. 

Jacket : Begin with a shell of four double crochet in every 
third stitch of the yoke, until you reach the first point of the 
yoke ; then make a chain of nine stitches and carry it on to the 
other point of the yoke, with a shell in every third stitch until 
you reach the third point of the yoke. Make a chain of nine 
stitches, carry it to the fourth point of the yoke, join with 
a shell and make a shell in every third stitch across the second 
front. Make a chain of three and turn and put shell on shell 
until you reach the chain on which you put three shells ; then 
shell on shell across back, three shells on second chain, and so 
on across the second front. Make the jacket eight shells 
deep. 

Sleeve : Join in the wool under the arm, and make shell on 
shell on jacket, and a shell in every third stitch of the yoke from 
the first row, seven or eight shells in all. Then six rows, shell 
on shell. 

Around the bottom of the jacket and sleeves put a row of 
five double-crochet shells. Around the neck put a row of 
holes for a ribbon, formed by one double crochet and one 
chain; repeat across the neck and finish with a row of five 
double-crochet shells. A row of color may be carried all 
around the jacket by using a single crochet in each stitch of 
the shell. 

VL Spool-Knitting 

Materials. — Empty spool. — Pins or nails, 5 or 7. — Wire hair- 
pin. — Colored wool. 

Take a large empty spool and place the pins at regular 
intervals around the hole at one end. Push these in securely, 
as quite a little strain will come on them. Thin nails with 
small heads may be used in place of pins. 

Take the odd pieces of worsted that are left from other 



120 



Occupations for Little Fingers 



work, tie them together and wind in a ball. Pass one end 
through the hole from the end where the pins are, and 
wind the worsted twice around the pins, going in front of one 
and back of the next each time (see Fig. 76). Then pass the 

worsted outside of all 
the pins. Take the 
loop that is on each 
pin and slip it over 
the head; use the 
hairpin for this pur- 
pose. Keep passing 
the worsted around 
the outside of the 
pins and slipping the 
stitches off in regular 
order. This knitting 
may be made in long 
strips and used for 
horse-reins and mats, or in short strips and used for doll's 
golf-stockings. To finish it off: Break the worsted, leaving 
about ten inches; thread the end in the needle and take up 
the stitches from pins. Draw them up and fasten securely. 





Fig. 76. 



VII. Wash-Cloth 

Materials. — Dexter knitting-cotton, No. 12. — 2 bone knitting- 
needles, No. 4. Approximate cost per child 02 

Set up forty stitches in the following manner : Make a loop, 
slip it on the left-hand needle, and slip the right-hand needle 
into the loop from front to back. Put the cotton over the 
point of the needle from underneath and draw it through the 
loop. Slip the loop from the right-hand needle on to the left. 
Put the right needle through the second loop and do the 
same again. Continue until enough stitches are on the left- 
hand needle (see Fig. 77, a). Having the required number of 






Crocheting and Knitting 



121 



stitches on the left-hand needle, put the right-hand needle into 
the back of the first loop, from the front toward the back. 
Throw the cotton over the needle and take up the stitch on the 
right-hand needle, slipping the stitch from the left hand oik 
(see Fig. 77, b). Repeat until all the stitches are on the right- 
hand ne<dlc, then change needles and proceed as before. In 
plain knitting always slip off the first stitch. In order to slip a 
stitch, slip from one needle to the other without knitting. 
Knit back and forth until you have a square, then bind off in 
the following manner: Slip the first stitch, knit the second, 
and with the point of the left-hand needle slip the first stitch 





Fig. 77. 



over the second, leaving one stitch on the needle each time. 
Knit the next stitch and slip the one on the needle over it. 
Continue until all the stitches are- bound off. This should 
be done rather loosely or the edge will draw. 

Put an edge of one double- and one- -ingle- ( ror bet all around. 
Then make a scallop of four or five double crochet stitches 
in each space, catching them down with one single crochet- 
stitch between each group. 

Little afghans may be made in the- same manner by using 
two colore in Saxony yarn, and knitting two squares the same 
size. These are placed together and a -/ allop put around t he- 
edge. 



122 



Occupations for Little Fingers 
VIII. Doll's Hood 



Materials. — Shetland wool, \ hank.— 2 bone knitting-needles, 
No. 6. Approximate cost per child 04 

Set up forty-five stitches and knit back and forth plain 
for thirty rows. Bind off loosely. Fold the two sides to meet 
in the centre, sew them together, and then fold the sides to- 
gether and sew at both ends through four thicknesses (see Fig. 
78, a, 6, and c). Catch together the points of the two seams 




V\^^W\VWVVV \ 




just sewed, and turn so that the seams are on the inside. Fold 
back the front of the cap and run in a ribbon at the back to 
draw it in at the nape of the neck and to form the strings. 
Place a little bow on the top. 



IX. Wristlets 

Materials. — Columbia yarn, % hank. — 2 bone needles, No. 4. 
Approximate cost per child 05 

Set up thirty-six stitches, knit two and purl two. To purl, 
bring the wool from the back of the needle to the front ; take 



Crocheting and Knitting 123 

up a stitch with the right-hand needle, putting it in from the 
right side or toward the knitter. Throw the wool over the 
needle from the back toward the front, draw it through and 
slip off the stitch. Be careful always to carry the wool back 
of the needle before beginning to knit plain again after purl- 
ing. After finishing one row, turn the work and begin the 
next row by slipping the first stitch and knitting the second, 
then purl two and continue as in the first row. When the 
wristlet is about four inches deep bind it off loosely and sew it 
together on the sides. 

Two colors may be used, putting in the second color as a 
border, top and bottom. 

X, Doll's Sweater 

Materials. — White Saxony, | hank. — Colored Saxony, \ hank. 
— 2 bone knitting-needles, No. 4 or No. 2. — 2 steel nee- 
dles, No. 16. Approximate cost per child 06 

This little sweater is very attractive and, although more 
complicated than the preceding articles, can be made by older 
children with very little trouble if the following directions are 
carefully noted : 

Set up thirty-two stitches, knit two, purl two, for fifty rows. 

Fifty-first row : Knit two, purl two for eight stitches, bind 
off sixteen stitches, knit two, purl two for eight stitches. Knit 
the first eight stitches back and forth in rib style, two and two 
for seven rows. With an extra needle, knit on the opposite 
side eight stitches until you have four rows ; bind off. Cast 
on the extra needle eight stitches, knit back and forth with 
rib of two and two until you have four rows. Join this small 
piece to the body by casting on sixteen stitches to correspond 
to sixteen stitches which were bound off. Continue with rib 
of two until you have fifty rows. 

Collar : Pick up the stitches around the neck, and with color 
knit one, purl one, using smaller needles for two rows, then 



124 Occupations for Little Fingers 

use white for two rows, until you have three rows white and 
three rows color; the last row of color will make three rows; 
then bind off. 

Sleeve : Divide the body in half, take up two loops on each 
side, knit two and purl two, using both sides of the stitch, 
making eight stitches. At the end of the row pick up another 
stitch and in this loop make two stitches, knitting across again 
with a rib ; pick up the loop on the other side, making in it two 
stitches to correspond with opposite side. Continue thus, 
picking up a loop and making two stitches at the end of every 
row until you have thirty-two stitches on the needle, then 
continue plain rib of two and two until you have twenty rows. 
With color and small needles knit one, purl one, knit two to- 
gether, and so on across the needle, turn and rib one and one 
using color, same as in the collar. The sleeve may also be 
made by taking up the thirty-two stitches at once, and knitting 
twenty rows; this will make a sleeve without any fulness at 
the top. Close the seam from the edge of the cuff to the bot- 
tom of the body on both sides. Crochet loops and place the 
buttons on the shoulder. 



CHAPTER XII 

SOME SPECIAL WORK FOR BOYS 

Boys' occupations must at times differ essentially from 
those presented to girls. This chapter offers some special 
suggestions for them, but they may also be worked out by the 
girls. The penknife is particularly appealing because it 
presents such a wide field for experiment and exploration. 
Scissors, and the mucilage-pot follow in order, and help to add 
to the intensity of interest. 

The nearer the approach made to real life in the articles 
produced, the greater is the degree of attention which is de- 
veloped in the boy. With wood, hammer, and nails, the 
scope of the work can be made very broad. 

The following articles are suggestive and very easily made. 
It is well, as far as possible, to allow the boys to carry out 
their original ideas in regard to construction and decoration. 

I. Jacob's Ladder 

Materials. — i strip of heavy paper, 3 yards x 6 inches. 

The Jacob's ladder, as illustrated in Plate XIV, No. 1, was 
a favorite pastime of children a decade or more ago. It is 
easily made, and a particular delight to boys. 

Roll the strip of paper, which may be composed of a number 
of colors pasted together, into a hard cylindrical roll. Paste 
the end to keep it in place. With a sharp penknife cut the 
roll, as shown in Fig. 79. Care must be taken to cut only half 

125 



126 



Occupations for Little Fingers 




Fig. 79. 



way through, or, 
in other words, 
only to the centre 
of the cylindri- 
cal roll. Bend 
it in half, as in 
b, Fig. 79, and 
open until the 
centre of the roll 
is visible. Take 
hold of the top- 
most layer of pa- 
per in the centre 
and pull up the ladder, which is formed by the successive 
layers of paper. 

II. The Palm-Tree 

Materials. — i strip of heavy paper, 3 yards x 6 inches. 

The paper tree is made in a manner similar to the 
Jacob's ladder. Roll the long strip of paper until it 
forms a tight cylindrical roll. After the end of the strip 
has been glued, the roll is prepared for cutting. This is 
, m ^ done from the 

£™ J end instead of 

the middle, and 
only one cut is 
necessary. Fig. 
80 shows the roll 
and the line 
marked for cut- 
ting. The 
length of the cut 
should be half 
the depth of the 
Fig. 80. " whole roll. 



u 




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PLATE XIV 



127 



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WORK FOR BOYS 



Jacob's Ladder. 
Palm-tree. 



3. Soldier Cap and Epaulets. 

4. Kite. 



5. Marble-bag. 

6. Ball-cover. 



7. Sail-boat. 



128 



Occupations for Little Fingers 



Turn the pieces cut back in position (see Fig. 80 b) and 
pull out the tree by taking hold of the innermost layer of 
paper. Plate XIV, No. 2, shows a tree which has been made 
from newspaper. 



IIL Soldier Hat and Epaulets 

Materials. — Sheets of colored paper or newspaper. 

Hat : Take two sheets of paper, sixteen by twelve inches, 
and place one exactly on top of the other. The hat is stronger 
because of the two thicknesses, but it may be made of only 
one. If a larger hat is desired, the 
proportions must be the same; it 
may be decreased in a similar way. 
After placing the two pieces exactly 
together so that it appears as one 
double sheet, fold it until the two 
twelve-inch edges lie on each other. 
Place the paper so that the folded 
edge is away from the worker. The 
right- and left-hand corners of this 
folded edge are to be turned down 
(see Fig. 81 a). After folding the 
point of the hat in this way, turn up 
the finishing band at the bottom to 
complete the fold. This band is 
folded over twice, and half is turned to each side of the hat 
(see Fig. 81 b). The ends may be finished by gluing them 
together or pinning them in place. 

A pompon may be added by taking a strip of paper and 
clipping it with the scissors to make a fringe. This can then 
be rolled in a cylinder to form the pompon. Pin or sew to 
the point of the hat. 

Epaulets: Cut a pattern according to the size of the 
epaulets desired. The shape should be similar to Fig. 82. 




Fig. 81. 



Some Special Work for Boys 



129 



After cutting the correct size, prepare several thicknesses 
of the same shape for each epaulet. Sew through the 
middle of each with a herringbone - stitch, using some 
bright worsted, and clip the fringe with 
the scissors (see Fig. 82). y^B'IH 

IV, A Baseball Cover 



■Waxed twine or £g 




Materials. — Heavy felt.- 
thread. 

There are several ways of covering a 
ball, but only two of the more simple 
methods are described below. 

Measure the circumference of the ball 
and cut a paper pattern according to the shape in Fig. 83 a, 
using three-fourths of this measurement for the length and 
one-fourth for the width in the centre. Two such pieces 



Fig. 82. 




Fig. 83. 



will be necessary for the cover, and the pattern will have to 
be fitted until it exactly covers the surface of the ball (see 
Fig. 83 a). The cover is then ready to be sewed. 



130 



Occupations for Little. Fingers 



Another way to prepare it is to 
cut two circles of felt and one strip, 
which must exactly measure the cir- 
cumference of the ball. One-third 
of the circumference will give the di- 
ameter for the circles. Cut the strip 
from two to two and one-half inches 
wide, or according to the size of the 
ball. Sew it together first and then 
add the circles. 

The drawing-in stitch is used for 
the sewing of both covers. This is a 
simple alternating stitch and has the 
effect of a lacing. For the cover it 
is taken in a slanting way and a space of one-quarter of an 
inch is left between the stitches on each side of the edge (see 
Fig. 84). The needle is put under the edge first to the right 
and then to the left of the opening, pointing it toward the 
worker. 



N 






/ 


\ 


/ V 


\ 


<5 



Fig. 84. 



V. Paper Kite 

Materials. — 2 flat sticks, nx^ inches. — 1 flat stick, 8 
inches. — 1 sheet of newspaper 
or heavy brown paper. — Twine 
and glue. 

The three sticks must be bound 
together in such a way that the kite 
will be well balanced. The propor- 
tion is about one-third above and 
two-thirds below the crossing of the 
third stick (see Fig. 85). Two may 
be tied together first and the shorter 
one bound to the others. In the end 
of each stick cut a slight groove and 
bind the sticks together with a cord Fig. 85. 



xi 




Some Special Work for Boys 131 

(see Fig. 85). When the frame is ready, lay it on the paper 
and cut out the kite covering — allow one inch on all sides for 
turnings. Fold this allowance over the cord and paste it 
down. For the tail a number of rolls of paper two and one- 
half inches in length may be tied together, leaving a space of 
about two inches between each roll. The tail is attached 
to the centre of the balance cord at 'the bottom of the kite. 
This cord is put on by making holes in the paper and tying 
the string around the two bottom sticks ; about twelve inches 




Fig. 86. 

of cord are required for this purpose (see Fig. 86). The cord 
for flying must be attached as follows: One inch from the 
top of the kite tie the upper cord a; this is six inches in 
length, and the ends are attached to the two upper sticks. 
Cord b is attached to the two lower sticks, and is a trifle 
longer than cord a. Eight inches is a good length in pro- 
portion. 

Attach a and b with cord c, which is six inches in length, 
and allows for the pulling of the kite. The fly string is at- 



132 Occupations for Little Fingers 

tached to c, and should be put on with a slipknot, so that 
the kite may be balanced in flying. This will depend on the 
weight of the tail (see Fig. 86). 



VI. Indian Tents 

Materials. — Unbleached muslin. — 3 sticks. — Water-color 
paints. 

For the small tent shown in Plate XV, No. 4, three sticks, 
ten inches in length, have been used. These may be bound 
together loosely four inches from the top. 

A circle of muslin, sixteen inches in diameter, will make 
two tents. Cut the circle in half and remove a small segment 
from each side of the half (see Fig. 87). Cut a small semi- 
circular piece from the centre 
r^ **»^J of the original circle, according 

to Fig. 87. The tent shape is 
then prepared ready for deco- 
ration. The design may be 
sketched in pencil on the mus- 
FlG 87 lin and decorated with water- 

colors. Plate XV, No. 4, 
shows a simple decoration made by a child. The tent may 
be laced together for a short distance at the top with a strip 
of unbleached muslin. 

The tents may be made any size by piecing the muslin in 
strips according to the width desired. Three breadths of 
unbleached muslin, three yards in length, will make a good- 
size tent. They are, of course, only play tents, but afford 
much pleasure. Cut five poles about five feet in height. 
Point the large ends and stick them in the ground so that 
they meet at the top. Drape the cloth about them, and lace 
at the top as described. 




PLATE XV 



133 




i. Indian Headdress. 
2. Indian Belt. 



WORK FOR BOYS 

3. Doll. 

4. Tepee. 



5. Bow. 

6. Arrow. 



134 Occupations for Little Finger v 



VIL Indian Head-Dress 

Materials. — i strip of Turkey-red, i yard x 4 inches. — Chicken 
feathers. — Large beads, 2 strings. 

Prepare the strip of Turkey-red by folding under the raw 
edges until they lap. Baste, until the sewing of the beads 
holds them in place. Measure the head size of the child by 
putting the prepared band around the forehead, and crossing 
it in the back. The extra length is allowed to hang. 

For the decoration, old ostrich plumes or chicken feathers 
may be used, or even an old feather-duster. Sew the feathers 
close together and put the ends of the quills on the inside of 
the band. Decorate the band with the beads. String from 
six to ten of assorted colors on a strong thread and then take 
a stitch through the material. This Indian method of work 
has been described in the chapter on Bead- work (Fig. 57). 

Any extra decoration of bead-work, or other arrangement of 
feathers may be used. The strip may be made two or three 
yards in length, and the feathers sewed so as to form a head- 
dress which will extend to the feet. 

A belt may be made in a similar way, by measuring the size 
of the waist and having the feathers arranged to hang down 
about it. 

VIIL Indian Doll 

Materials. — Unbleached muslin. — Sawdust. — Paint-box. 

Cut a pattern for the shape of the doll by doubling a sheet 
of paper and cutting a doll as described in the chapter on 
Paper-cutting. Cut two pieces of unbleached muslin the 
shape of the pattern, and sew them together all around except 
on the upper side of one arm and one side of the head. Turn 
inside out and stuff with sawdust. Sew up the opening left, 
with an overhand stitch. 

Paint the face light brown, and the eyes, eyebrows, etc., 



Some Special Work for Boys 



135 



D 11 

i n i 



Fig. 88. 



black. The doll is now ready to be dressed. The trousers 
are cut from a square piece of material (see Fig. &%). Cut 
two squares of the same size and remove the pieces of mate- 
rial at the inner curve of the leg. Sew the two thicknesses to- 
gether around the curve and turn. 
Sew up the outside seam with run- 
ning stitches taken one inch from 
the edge and on the right side of the 
trousers. Fringe the outside and 
bottom of each leg and decorate 
with colored paint. 

The coat is also made from a 
square piece of unbleached cloth. 
Cut a pattern from paper first (see 
Fig. 89) to fit the size of the doll. 

Cut the muslin according to the pattern. A and b of the 
figure are the sleeve portions, and the coat is to be folded on 

the dotted line. Sew the 
sleeves and under-arm seam 
on the right side, one inch 
from the edge. Clip with 
the scissors to form a fringe 
all around the coat, with the 
exception of the neck and 
down the front. A red yarn 
may be used for further 
decoration, and the fringe 
and coat painted with the 
water-colors to match the 
trousers. Cut out the neck 
size and punch three or four holes along each front of the 
coat and lace with the yarn. 

The head-dress is made of a strip of muslin clipped to 
form a fringe and then painted. The strip is sewed around 
the doll's forehead. 







Fig. 89. 



136 Occupations for Little Fingers 

IX. Marble Bag 

Materials. — Denim, 16 x 5 \ inches. — Poseidon, or ribbon, 
\ yard. 

Double the oblong of denim so that the two right sides of 
the material are together. Seam both sides to within two and 
three-quarter inches of the top, allowing one-quarter of an inch 
for seams and using a stitching stitch (see Fig. 33). Turn the 
bag right side out. Bring one and one-half inches of the head- 
ing to the right side and seam for one inch at each end. There 
will be four such seams. Turn the four seams just sewed in- 
side out so that the raw edges come within. Turn the bag 
again to the wrong side and hem, after making a turning of 
one-quarter of an inch. One-quarter of an inch above the 
hemming make a row of running stitches to form a casing. 
Run in the cord and tie the ends with an overhand knot. A 
marble bag has only one draw-string. 

X, Bow and Arrow 

Materials. — 1 piece of J-inch pine, 20 inches. — 1 piece of flat 
ash, 28 x J x |- inches. 

The Indians in calculating for the length of their bows 
measure eight times the span of the hand. This measurement 
is from the end of the thumb across the palm to the end of the 
little finger. The arrow is the length of the arm from the 
thumb-nail to the armpit. Find the middle of the twenty- 



Fig. 90. 

eight-inch piece of ash which is for the bow. With a knife 
gradually narrow the width of the stick from the centre 
toward each end. Do not make it less than one-quarter of an 
inch in width at the narrowest part. Cut some kind of a 
fancy shape at each end of the bow (see Fig. 90), and use 



Some Special Work for Boys 137 

sand-paper to smooth the surface. After finishing the out- 
line, the upper side may be decorated with fancy cutting, or 
paints used to make it more ornate. Tie a string around the 
neck formed at one end and bend the bow to the right curve. 
Measure the length of the cord necessary to cross the bow 
and make a loop at the other end. The loop may be slipped 
around the neck at the opposite end when it is curved, or re- 
moved when the bow is not in use. 

The arrow: Whittle the four edges of the twenty-inch 
stick until it is round. The diameter of the stick at one end 
for about two inches in length should be one-half of an inch, 
and gradually slope to the diameter of one-quarter of an inch 
for the other eighteen inches. Smooth with sand-paper and 
cut a slight groove in the small end for the cord. 

XL Sail-boat Furnishings 

Any sail-boat which is available may be rigged and equipped 
by the children. It makes excellent cooperative work. 

The pattern must first be cut the size of the sails desired. 
These are made of cotton tape from one to one and one- 
half inches in width. Baste the tape to the pattern in rows, 
having the edge of the tape on the outside of the sail pattern 
—the side away from the mast. Baste the other 
rows parallel to the first and lap each successive 
one one-fourth of an inch over the previous row. 
Hem all the rows flat. Remove the bastings, 
turn the sail to the other side and hem. This is 
called counter-hemming. Three sides of the 
large sail are to be hemmed with one-eighth of 
an inch hem; the fourth side is the selvage. The 
jib may be prepared in a similar way to the 
main-sail. 

The boat may be furnished with sand-bags 
for ballast, cushions, and bumpers, They should Fig. 91 



sail pauem 



u 



138 



Occupations for Little Fingers 



Q 



be made in proportion to the size 
of the boat. 

The cushions should be cut 
- — 3 square and a stitching stitch 
used in sewing the seams. They 
can then be stuffed with cotton 
and overhanded on the fourth 
side. The sand-bags are oblong 
in shape and sewed in the same 
way. Stuff them with sand and 
overhand the fourth edge. 

The bumpers are made of a 
square of muslin. Sew two of 
the opposite sides together to make a hollow cylinder., Cut 
disks of muslin to fit the ends and overhand one to each end 
of the cylinder. Before sewing in the second one, run in a 
cord and fill with sand (see Fig. 91). 



Fig. 



92. 




Fig. 93. 



Some Special Work for Boys 139 

The captain of the boat may also be made of muslin. 
There are four rolls, one for the head and trunk which is 
about three-fourths of an inch in diameter, and three thinner 
rolls to form the arms and legs. 

In preparing the rolls, they must be wound very tightly 
and sewed. In rolling, double the roll itself after winding a 
few times, so as to make it very firm. Sew them according 
to Fig. 92. Cut patterns for the clothes. Suggestive pat- 
terns are offered in Fig. 93 ; the size will depend on the doll 
and boat. 

Mark the face of the doll with ink, and sew some wool or 
darning-cotton to the top of the roll for hair. 



CHAPTER XIII 

HOW TO USE NATURE'S MATERIALS 

Nature is very liberal in giving us materials that can be 
used by the children in their work or play with very little 
expense. In fact, we hardly realize how much we have ready 
at hand unless our attention is especially called to it. 

The materials vary in different parts of the country; for 
instance, in the South there are the pine-needles, the pal- 
metto, the corn-husks, the blue grass of Kentucky, the wis- 
taria, grape-vines, and the rushes. An ingenious teacher, 
mother, or child will find many others when the possibilities 
of those mentioned above are learned. As one goes farther 
North, one finds more beautiful grasses, rushes, birch bark, 
twigs from the trees, willows, grape-vines, and also the corn- 
husks, which have very beautiful coloring. Nature is indeed 
good to us if we know how to use her wealth. 

I. Chains 

Very attractive chains can be made by the little people from 
materials which they have gathered. The haws from the 
wild-rose bushes may be strung together, using a large needle 
and rather coarse thread. Red ears of corn, dried and shelled, 
supply excellent material for another style of chain. Dried 
peas and squash or pumpkin-seeds, used together, and strung 
in different combinations (see Fig. 94), are exceedingly pretty. 
Acorns and maple wings alternated with pieces of coarse grass 
about one and one-half inches long (see Fig. 94) form another 
chain. Horse-chestnuts of small size can also be used, with 
or without the coarse grass. We might enumerate any num- 

140 



Hoiv to Use Nature's Materials 



141 



ber more, but from these suggestions the children will find 
something that may be used to form the bright pretty chains 
that they all love so 
well. 



II. Fruit-Basket 



Materials. — G rape- 
vines. 

All through Italy 
and Switzerland, as 
the trains pull into 
the stations, the hot 
and dusty traveller 
sees bands of little 
children with trays 
filled with the dainti- 
est baskets, full of 
the luscious grapes of 

those countries. These baskets are made of grape-vines, 
and are woven in the following manner : 

Cut five four-inch pieces of the heavier vine; take two of 
these and split them in the centre for about one and one-half 
inches (see Fig. 95). Slip the other three through this slit. 
Take a long slim piece of the vine and, beginning at the small- 
est end, wind it over and under the crossed spokes, going 
twice around. Then insert another weaver of about the same 
size and make three rows of pairing (see Fig. 14); fasten the 
ends by working them into the weaving. Do not try to press 

the weavers close together, as 
in rattan weaving. These 
three rows should make the 
bottom about three inches in 



Fig. 94. 



Fig. 95. 

diameter. At the side of each spoke insert a spoke of vine 
about sixteen inches long. If the pieces are rather small two 



142 



Occupations for Little Fingers 



may be put in together. The largest end of the vine is pushed 
in at the side of the spoke. Bring each spoke, or group of 
spokes, under the one to the right, over the next, and under 
the next, and down to the lower edge of the basket, leaving 
a loop which stands up about four inches. Continue in this 
manner all around the basket ; the last two spokes will have to 

go under, over, and under 
the first two groups that were 
used. When all the spokes 
are down at the bottom, fin- 
ish them with the following 
border: Take the first spoke 
and place it under the next 
one to the right, over the 
next one, and back. Do this 
all around the basket, work- 
ing the last spokes in through 
the loops formed by the first. 
Cut off the ends that are left. 
Cut two lengths of vine about 
seventeen inches, and push 
them into the bottom nearly 
to the centre, on opposite sides of the basket. These pieces 
are to form the handle. Bring them up on the outside to 
the top of the basket, twist the ends together, and then bring 
them over to the opposite side from where they started. Tie 
them by working the small end in and out of the weaving 
and around the handle itself (see Fig. 96). This finishes 
the basket. Fill it with a grape-leaf and a bunch of grapes, 
and you will have a very artistic combination. 




Fig. 96. 



IIL Hanging-Basket for Ferns 

Take six twigs of some pliable wood, rather green, and 
about a yard long. Tie them together at the small ends, 



Hoic to Use Nature s Materials 



143 




Fig. 97. 



using the end of one and wrapping it around the others, two 
or three times; fasten by slipping it into the wrapping. Take 
each end in turn and place it under the one to the left and out. 
Continue working in this manner, increasing the spaces be- 
tween the twists or ties each time, to make the basket larger 
at the top (see Fig. 
97). When you 
have sixteen or 
eighteen rows, if 
the basket is as 
deep as you desire 
it, push the last 
spoke through the 
same loop that the 
first one of that 
row went under. 
To complete the 
basket, cut off the twigs rather close to where they are 
fastened. A handle may be added: Take a long pliable 
twig, double it in the centre and pass it through the weav- 
ing on one side a couple of rows from the top; twist the 
long ends together and bring them over to the opposite side, 
where they must be fastened to make a strong finish. Line 
the inside of the basket with moss, and plant a fern in it. 
A hoop of wire may be attached to one side in place of the 
handle. 

IV* Jar Covered with Wistaria 

Materials. — Small colored jardiniere, or earthen flower-pot. — 
Wistaria vine. 

This idea is borrowed from the Japanese, who have the 
wistaria vine in great abundance, and who have learned 
how well it is adapted to this artistic use. Take six long, 
slim pieces of the vine and cross them three and three in 
the centre. Tie them, and place on the bottom of the jar to 



144 Occupations J br Little Fingers 

find the diameter of the bottom or where the weaving is to 
commence. 

Take another slim piece of vine, double it in the centre, 
and slip it over one of the spokes. Make three or four rows 
of paired weaving (see Fig. 14), drawing it in slightly to fit the 
jar. Cut off the weavers and fasten them by pushing them 
into the weaving. Cut the spokes at the centre where they 
were tied, and make the following finish at the bottom close 
to the weaving. Put each spoke over the one to the right 
and inside. The last spoke goes through the loop formed by 
the first. Cut off the ends. The upper part is made by ty- 
ing the upper part of the spokes in knots : either the Solomon's 
knot or the sailor's knot may be used — both are described 
in the chapter on Cord-work. Divide the spokes into groups 
of four and tie a row of knots around the jar. Then take two 
spokes from each knot, and tie another row about three- 
fourths of an inch above the first. Continue in this way, the 
knots forming meshes, until within one-half of an inch of the 
top of the jar. Insert a weaver and work with paired weaving 
to the top, where it may be finished off with the following 
border. Put each spoke over the one to the right and inside; 
the last spoke goes through the loop formed by the first. 

A long handle may be added in the same manner as de- 
scribed in the fern-basket. The prettiest jars to cover are 
those which come in the plain glazed colors, green, red, blue, 
and yellow being the most attractive. If these cannot be 
obtained, flower-pots of unglazed earthen-ware may be used 
to good advantage. 

V- Birch-Bark 

Birch-bark is another material which has many possibilities, 
and is easily obtained in certain localities. It can be handled 
by small children as it is quite tough and pliable. 

A simple little picture-frame may be made in the following 
manner: Cut two pieces of the bark three and one-half by 



PLATE XVI 



145 







i. Grape basket. 

2. Fern basket. 

3. Covered jar. 

4. Picture-frame 



Canoe of birch-bark. u. Plaque. 



NATURE'S MATERIALS 

6. Box of birch-bark. 

7. Corn-husk hat. 

8. Corn-husk basket. 

9. Hemp and grass box. 



[i. P>lue-print. . 

[2. Rye-straw basket. 

[3. Jar covered with wis- 



146 



Occupations for Little Fingers 



three inches, or any other dimensions desired. From one 
cut a piece from the centre, leaving a one-inch margin all 
around. Fasten them together at the four corners with 
McGill fasteners No. A. A. i, or with a little bow of Poseidon 
cotton. 

In connection with the study of primitive life, a little canoe 
may be made. Take a piece of bark seven inches long and 
five inches wide. Find the centre of the two short sides, 
measure in from there toward the centre one inch, and draw 
a curved line from that point to the outside edge at the cor- 
ners (see Fig. 98). The long sides may be slightly hollowed 




*7"* 



Fig. 98. 



in the same way. With a small punch make a row of holes 
one-fourth of an inch from the edge on the two short sides. 
Double the bark together and lace through the holes twice 
with a piece of raffia, making the stitches cross. A decora- 
tion of some sort may be painted on the canoe or worked with 
raffia. 

Work for the older children may take the form of boxes or 
scrap-baskets. For the box, cut two disks of bark, three and 
three-fourth inches and one three and one-half inches in diam- 
eter, one strip two by twelve inches, and one strip one-half 
by ten and one-half inches. Punch a row of small holes on both 
edges of the widest strip, about one-quarter of an inch from 




How to Use Nature's Materials 147 

the edge and one-half inch apart, and at one end make two 
rows of holes alternating them. On the edge of the narrow 
strip put one row of holes, and four at one end. On the disks 
punch a row the same distance from the edge and spaced in 
the same way. On one of the larger disks put a second row 
just inside of the first row punched. This is for the under side 
of the cover and is to have the narrow strip laced to it to form 
an edge, which holds the cover on the box. It is now ready 
to put together. Lap the widest strip one inch, and sew it 
with raffia, using a herringbone-stitch. Fasten this to the 
bottom of the box, i.e., the smaller disk, using a straight stitch 
connected by a 
slanting one. 
This makes the 
sewing very 
strong, as each 

stitch passes through the holes twice. The finish at the 
top is similar, a thin piece of pliable wood or rattan 
being laid around on the inside of the box, and held in 
place by the stitches. After working around the top once, 
turn and come back, crossing each slanting stitch (see Fig. 
99). A coil of sweet grass may be put around the top and bot- 
tom of the box, and held in place by the stitches. For the 
cover, after lacing the narrow strip to the disk with the two 
rows of holes, place the two together and lace them around 
the outside edge in the same manner as the top of the box. 
Make a small ring of raffia and fasten it to the centre of the 
cover. The birch-bark for these boxes must be of rather 
heavy quality. 

VL Corn-Husk Hat 

Materials. — Square of brown paper. — Corn-husks. 

The hat shown in Plate XVI, No. 7, is a miniature of those 
worn by the negroes in the cotton-fields. They are very light, 
easily made, and cost practically nothing. 



148 Occupations for Little Fingers 

Take a square of paper the diameter of the hat desired, 
fold it first in half, then in quarters, forming a small square. 
Fold this on the diagonal, and keep folding it in this way until 
the short side is on top. Cut off the paper to the length of 
this short side. Measure down from the point, one-sixth of 
the head size, and cut off. This will give the brim for the 
hat. Cut a circle or disk for the top of the crown in the same 
manner. These pieces and a straight piece for the side 
crown are to be covered with the corn-husks. Cut the husks 
into one-inch strips and point one end by folding the two 
corners to the centre. Lay these strips on the paper brim 
so that the points extend just beyond the edge, and the strips 
overlap each other slightly at the outer edge; bring them to 
the centre, where they will lap considerably, and baste to hold 
them in position. On the under side of the paper, the strips 
may be wider, and the ends straight instead of pointed. 
Turn them under and place them even with the outer edge 
of the paper; lap them in the same way as on the upper side. 
Take the piece of paper for the side crown and cover it with 
the husks in the same manner as the upper brim, pointing one 
end of each strip and letting it extend about one inch beyond 
the edge. The crown is made in the same manner, the pieces 
meeting in the centre, where the ends are covered with a 
small circle of husk. After all the pieces are prepared, they 
are to be stitched on the machine to hold them in place. 
Start in the centre and stitch around the crown, spacing the 
rows about three-eighths of an inch apart. After the crown 
is stitched, put three or four rows on the side crown. Then 
baste it to the brim, lapping the points the width that they 
extend beyond the paper, stitch it in the same way as the 
crown. Fasten the top of the crown and the side crown 
together by taking several stitches between each point. Trim 
out the head size. These hats are quite attractive when 
trimmed. If a machine is not available for the finishing, some 
fancy stitch that will hold the husks in place may be used. 



How to Use Nature s Materials 149 



VIL Corn-Husk Baskets 

In some localities where corn-husks are very plentiful, 
they may be used for baskets in place of raffia. The coiled 
basket described in Chapter III works out very well with 
the husks, which may be split and used for the sewing also. 
Several pieces are laid together and are wrapped with an 
extra piece to form a coil. The short length of the husk ne- 
cessitates frequent piecing; always lap them with the small 
end over the large one. To piece them for sewing tie them 
together with an overhand knot. 

Plate XVI, No. 8, shows a basket where the spokes are of 
rattan and the weavers are of coiled corn-husks. Take eight 
pieces of No. 3 rattan, sixteen inches long, and one, nine 
inches long. Cross them four and four in the centre, and add 
the extra spoke either at the corner or in the centre of one side. 
Tie in place with a strand of raffia. Have ready a coil of 
the husks about six yards long, and use it as a weaver, passing 
it over and under one spoke each time. When the mat is 
about four and one-half inches in diameter, bend the spokes 
up at the sides and continue with the weaving until the sides 
are about one and one-half inches high. Cut off the coil and 
tie the ends to keep them from unwinding. Take a weaver 
of No. 2 rattan, double it in the centre and make several rows 
of paired weaving (see Fig. 14) around the top of the basket. 
Cut off the ends and work them into the weaving. Finish 
the top with the following border, after the spokes have been 
soaked to make them pliable. Place each spoke in succession 
back of the next one to the right, in front of the next, and back 
of the next to the inside of the basket. The last two spokes 
will be worked through the loops formed by the first ones. 
After the border is dry, trim the ends of the spokes to within 
one-half inch of the border. 



150 Occupations for Little Fingers 

VIIL Grass and Hemp Baskets 

The most artistic uzd we can make of the materials that 
Nature offers to us, is the grass basket sewed with hemp. 
These baskets are by far the most difficult to execute of any 
that have been thus far described, but are so charming when 
finished that they repay one for the time and labor they de- 
mand. Hemp in its natural color may be bought at any 
cordage company. It is a fibre which takes the dye easily, 
and artistic colors may be obtained by the use of vegetable 
dyes. To prepare it, divide it into hanks about as large as 
the wrist, and wrap it in coils. It can be dampened before 
putting it in the dye, but it does not need to be put in a mor- 
dant. To dry it, loosen the coil and hang it up; after dry- 
ing, it is best to coil it again, as it is a delicate fibre and apt 
to become tangled and easily broken. 

The grasses for these baskets should be gathered in the 
early part of the summer, before they blossom; long, pliable 
leaves are the best for the purpose. They should be thor- 
oughly dried in a shady place as the sun will take out some 
of the charming color. Grasses which grow in swampy land 
will be found excellent for this purpose. Rushes, flag, and 
the broad leaves of the prairie grasses may also be used. The 
stiff grass which comes up the last of August, after the hay has 
been cut, and which turns a soft brown with the first frost, 
makes a nice variation in color. It is also good to use for 
filling, as it is very firm. Rye straw sewed with yellow or 
green hemp is very artistic. The corn-husks which are used 
to make a pattern in the baskets, may be found in many 
colors — yellow, red, and a reddish brown. 

As the hemp is rather difficult for a beginner to manage, 
it is best to sew the first basket made with raffia, using the 
hemp for the centre, and putting in the grasses around the 
edge for a finish. 

Take a bunch of hemp about as large as the little finger (in 



How to Use Nature's Materials 151 

dividing the hemp always try to divide it where it separates 
naturally, and take hold of it near the centre, pulling it both 
ways), wrap the large end five times with raffia of a contrast- 
ing color which has been threaded into a large-eyed needle, 
spacing the wrappings about one-fourth of an inch apart. 
Coil in a small circle and take one stitch through to hold it. 
Then begin sewing the long end of the hemp down, taking a 
stitch in each of the first five wrappings. The hemp is held 
in the left hand with the thumb and second finger, the first 
finger being left free to hold each stitch in place while the 




Fig. 100. 



raffia is being drawn through the coil; the long end of the 
hemp must not be held by the hand, but be left loosely hang- 
ing to the left (see Fig. ioo). Each stitch is taken through 
the coil, the needle being put in from the back toward the 
worker, and so that it passes under the stitch in the last coil ; 
before this stitch is pulled through, place it at the desired 
angle, and hold it firmly with the first finger. This forms the 
swirls. When the stitches get too far apart, new ones are 
added half-way in the spaces. Do not have the stitches too 
close together, as it will spoil the effect. Each stitch must be 
pulled tight before the next one is put in, for upon this de- 



152 Occupations for Little Fingers 

pends the beauty of the basket. As the hemp becomes thin, 
another bunch may be added by separating the old one and 
hiding the new ends between. Continue sewing until the 
bottom is about three and one-half inches in diameter. Cut 
off the ends of the hemp to within two and one-half or three 
inches of the last stitch. Take a bunch of long green grass, 
about the same size as the hemp, arrange it so that all the 
large ends are together and, separating the hemp as before, 
hide the ends. Take one or two stitches over both grass and 
hemp, and then gradually work the latter to the wrong side 
of the basket, where it is cut off. In working with the grass, 
the coil must be kept full — this means adding grass frequently, 
always working toward the small end and hiding the new 
large ends by placing them in the centre of the old ones. 

When the bottom of the basket is large enough, begin 
building it up on the sides. The same principle applies here 
as in coiled basket described in the chapter on Raffia; the 
angle at which the coils are laid on one another determines 




Fig. 101. 

the shape. The grass being stiff er than the raffia, it will be 
necessary to shape it somewhat with the hands. In order to 
finish the basket at the top, cut out some of the grass and lap 
the ends down on the outside, sewing them firmly. This way 
of building up the sides is only used where the inside of the 
basket is the right side. 

In shaping a basket, where the sides are to curve out and 



How to Use Nature's Materials 153 

then be brought in, a different principle is used. When ready 
to turn it up, bring the material with which you are sewing 
under the coil and turn the basket around so that the grass ex- 
tends toward the right instead of the left. Place the needle 
through each stitch in the same direction you have been 
working (see Fig. 101) ; this will change the slant of the stitch 
but will bring the right side of the basket toward the worker. 

A basket started with grass and sewed with hemp is more 
difficult to manage on account of the quality of the hemp. 
This must be divided into needlefuls before beginning to sew. 
Tie up each one separately, and place them in some con- 
venient spot where they will not become tangled with the 
grass. A sail needle is the best to use, and each needleful 
should be large enough to pass through the eye easily. Take 
away all the short pieces, as they will only bother later, and 
thread in the needle from the large end ; if slightly dampened 
the hemp will work better. To piece the hemp use a weav- 
er's knot (see Plate I, No. 9) and tie close to the last stitch. 
Follow the directions for sewing with the raffia, being sure to 
hold each stitch down carefully with the first finger while 
pulling the hemp through. Keep the coil of grass full, i.e., 
about the size of the finger. When the bottom is large enough 
bring the hemp under the coil to the outside, and continue 
sewing, building the coils on top of one another. Better ef- 
fects may be gained by using heavier grasses for the up- 
per part of the basket. Keep the grasses parallel to each 
other, and do not let them twist. 

It is well to make a design for the shape before beginning to 
work; any pottery form will answer nicely. Plate XVI, No. 
10, shows a plaque or tray where the corn- husk is put in to 
form a pattern ; the centre is started the same as the foregoing 
basket. After working until the centre is about three inches 
in diameter, start the pattern in the following manner : Tear 
the corn-husk into strips about one inch wide by three inches 
long, fold the long edges in slightly toward the centre. Gather 



154 



Occupations for Little Fingers 



one end together and slip it under the coil of grass to the wrong 
side, close to the last stitch. Wrap the long end over the grass 
and take two or three stitches, gradually working the other 
end over to the wrong side of the basket; this should make 

both ends on the slant (see Fig. 
102). When exactly opposite 
where the first piece of husk 
was put in, insert a second one 
in the same way, and sew it 
down with the same number of 
stitches. This starts the pat- 
tern, which may be worked out 
in any form desired, increasing 
and decreasing the spaces cov- 
ered by the husk. 

In piecing the grass, it is well 
to do so under the husk as 
it will show less. Bands of different colored grasses may be 
worked in with very good effect. In finishing a large plaque 
or basket insert a stitch between each swirl for the outside 
row. 




Fig. 102. 



IX. Blue Prints of Grasses 



Materials. — Blue print paper. — Printing 
or ferns. 



frame. — Grasses 



These prints are very easy to make and arc exceedingly at- 
tractive. 

Gather the grasses, leaves, or ferns, and place them in the 
printing frame between the glass and the paper. Expose them 
for about ten minutes, and then wash the print in cold water. 

The children can make interesting books by mounting the 
prints on one page, and writing a description of the grass or 
leaf on the opposite side. 



THE END 



jGT 6 



